Question about Monster Cable Monster 200 Agu Fused Power Distribution Block

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1997 Buick Skylark has dead short in fuse block

We have battery , alternator and starter off car and when you hook meter shows reading thru positive to negative on the fuse block, you take out fuses it doesnt, Can fuse block be bad

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  • kirkmiller May 11, 2010

    lights, fuses, LEDs and a couple other devices will ultimately make a fuse block look shorted. Instead of looking for resistance (ohms) I would put the battery back in. Then, if you have a problem you can start at the fuses and follow the voltage to any problems. 

  • CDNMoose
    CDNMoose May 11, 2010

    well to me the fuses complete the ciruit so when you put the meter on it it will read a signal. is your meter reading volts or ohms?


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Usually not pull the fuses one by one till it stops reading a short. Or since you have them all out put them in one by one until you see the short comeback. Then trace just the things on that circuit

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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Battery keeps going dead,bought 3 new,had new belts installed as per recall,alternator is good. still have to jump start when I have to use it.

Sounds like something is causing a power drain. If you know how to use an amp meter it's not too hard to find it. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery with the meter set on amp put one lead from the meter on the battery terminal the other to the cable you took off the battery so that the current goes through the meter if it shows a drain pull out one fuse at a time until no drain seen then just check what that fuse goes to.

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Hey i have a scosche in-line fuse block i purchased. I haven't had any problems until recently. My fuse fried. So i bought more and went to replace it and every fuse i try instantly fries. i cant seem

Most likely the amplifier you have hooked up to that fuse position is defective and causing the fuse to blow. Or you have a short in the powerline somewhere. Disconnect the power wire from the amplifier, tape up the end so it won't short out to anything. Replace the fuse, if it doesn't blow then you will need to get the amp checked, if it does blow, then you have a short somewhere along your power wire.

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With BIG wires from battery to cap and then to your amp.

Good idea to put fuse or fusible link between bat + and the cap. Protects against fires.

If one wanted to be safe from starter motor transients I would gate the + power lead with a power relay between the battery and the cap. This relay should close when you are in run or accessory position of your key switch. I recommend this as there are so MANY dead car audio amps. Just search for them on here! A bunch of them MIGHT be caused by inductive transients during starter motor shutdown. Note the inductance is in the grounding wire from teh battery to the engine/chassis.

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If you do not know or can't find what each wire is in the factory stereo harness, you can follow these simple steps to determine what each wire is using a digital muti-meter and a AA battery or with just an analog meter. You may also need a 1 amp fuse and a few feet of 18-20 gauge primary wire. First, with the ignition switch in the off position, test each lead for 12V+. If you are using an analog meter (my preference for this), set it to read DC voltage at or above 15 volts. Setting your meter below this could cause damage to your meter or at least blow an internal fuse. Attach the common lead to a known ground in the vehicle and probe each wire with the positive lead. Make sure you measure every lead in the harness even after you have found one that shows 12V + and record your findings. Typically you will only have one 12V+ constant wire in the harness, but some vehicles may have more. This will connect to the memory lead of your head unit, normally yellow on most aftermarket radios
Second, with the ignition switch in the off position, turn on the vehicle's parking lights and make sure the dimmer is turned all the way up, then probe every wire in the harness again that did not show 12V+ in the first step and record your findings. When you have found a wire that shows 12V+, leave your meter attached to the wire and adjust the dimmer to see if there is a change in voltage, then continue to measure the remaining leads. The lead that shows 12V+ with the parking lights on that does not show a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the illumination lead. The lead that shows a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the dimmer wire. Your head unit may or may not have a corresponding lead for either of these (typically orange and/or orange with white stripe on most aftermarket head units).
Third, with the ignition switch in the accessory position, measure each lead. You should find one that now shows 12V+ only when the key is in the accessory and run positions. This is the 12V+ switched lead or accessory lead and will connect to the red lead of most aftermarket head units.
Fourth, with the ignition switch in the off position, set your meter to read resistance at the lowest scale and zero out your meter if you are using an analog meter. Reconnect the common lead to a known vehicle ground and probe every lead that did not show 12V+ in the previous steps to find the ground lead in the harness. This will connect to the black lead on most aftermarket head units.
Fifth, turn the ignition switch to the accessory position and momentarily touch each lead to ground that did not measure 12V+ in the previous steps. The purpose of this is to find the negative power antenna trigger lead if your vehicle is so equipped. Keep in mind, most vehicles do not have a negative power antenna trigger lead, so if you do not find one, don't be alarmed.
Sixth, if you are using an analog meter, set it to measure resistance at the lowest scale and connect the common lead to any of the remaining leads that did not show 12V+ or ground in the previous steps. If you are using a DMM, set it aside and connect one side of the AA battery to any of these leads. Now connect each of the other leads, one at a time, to the positive lead of your analog meter or to the other side of the battery until you hear a popping sound from any of the speakers paying close attention to which speak is popping. If you can see the speaker when it is popping, pay close attention to the direction of cone travel. If it moves outward, you have the correct polarity for that speaker. When you have found a speaker, record the two leads for the respective speaker and set them aside. Continue to measure the others in the same manner until all speaker wires have been identified. If you are unable to locate any speakers in this step, you most likely have an amplifier. If you do not have an amplifier and have found all the speaker leads, but can not see them to confirm the correct polarity, don't worry, you can check this during the installation of the head unit.
t the installation you hear.
When you installing the speakers connect one at a time each speaker and listen it, if there is a distortion the polarity is wrong just switch the polarity and you here the difference, do it with the rest of the speakers.

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How do i know what size power wire to use in my car for my new radio i plan to hook up two 1200 watt amps an equalizer and a 15 in subwoofer to a 2007 chevy cobalt

Put a generator in the trunk. I am assuming this is RMS watts. This will require modification to the vehicle's electrical system. Lets look at what you are saying. You are going to use two 1200 watt amplifiers, for a total of 2400 RMS watts.

Using a simple rule of thumb based on ohm's law and assuming a little over 80% efficiency in the amps (I doubt it) you divide the total watts by 10 (the cars 12 volts – a fuge), that leaves you a value of 240 or 240 amps required to power the amps at 12 volts DC.

Now consider 20 feet of wire to the battery or forty feet of wire round trip, one for positive and one for negative. a #2 AGW wire, about the size of your finger, will give you a 1.8 volt drop or 7% voltage drop in the wire. Assuming the alternator is maintaining 13.8 (standard charging voltage) that leaves you exactly 12V at the amplifier. This sounds great but the larger alternators only put out about 100 amps so you need 2.4 alternators to supply the current the amps will need. Lets assume a standard car battery is rated at 50 amp hours, that indicates that the battery can supply about 12 minutes of power at full output. Now calculate the rest of the power requirements of the vehicle and what you are short in alternator capacity the battery makes up. I would guess you vehicle battery would be dead in less then ½ hour or you need to keep the volume way down. That indicates a much smaller amp would be a much more cost effective solution.
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2 Answers

Remote start (posibly)

Your battery is almost certainly flat.

When you start the engine, the starter motor takes a large bite of power out of the battery. It takes a long time to put that power back.

So, you tried to start with remote start and it did'nt fire up. This took a big bite.
Then you started manually. This took another big bite.

The engine started though, and the alternator began the mamoth task of putting two start attempts worth of power back into the battery.

After 5 minuites, you interupted the alternator and switched off.

Now the battery will be really ill!

You really need to get a jump start from a vehicle with a battery which is about as big as yours.

Connect the leads from the good battery to yours, making sure that the donor vehicle is running. Then walk away and have a coffee. Come back and try your truck again. It should start ok.

If your battery has done this even once, can it be trusted again? If its more than 3 years old, get a new one fitted.

Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Will not power on

Try taping the ground wire directly to the negative battery terminal, and the positive and RMT wires to the positive battery terminal, if the unit still won't turn on, check for a fuse on the unit itself, otherwise it may be dead on arrival.  If it does work, check all your car fuses, also look for inline fuses on the stereo live wire harness.  Hope this helps

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