110cc suzki wont stay idling

SOURCE: Karcher 2400R

You have a poor signal to the spark plug usually caused by a rusty fly wheel found underneath the pullcord casing. clean it with releasing ajent such as wd 40. common when not in use for a while.

SOURCE: Mantis 2-stroke tiller won't start

This could be one of several problems...
• Last year's fuel. Get some fresh gas.
• Every 2-stroke needs a new spark plug each year... you know what that means.
• Clogged carb jets due to storing the tiller over the winter with fuel in the system. Never, ever do that. Now you'll need to pull the carb apart and clean it. Most of the orifices are so tiny you can't see them. Good luck.
• Engine is so old the crankshaft seals have hardened with age. This is one reason no 2-stroke lasts longer than about 8 years. If the seals are shot, then it will cost more to fix than a new one costs. Time to toss it.

SOURCE: 1986 Suzuki GS 450 won't start

Take the carburetors apart and either rebuild them or clean them thoroughly.

SOURCE: lawn mower ony runs at idle and dies after seconds

try holding the throttle open

SOURCE: Yard-man model 12a-979L401 won't start (9 years old)

Hi,
My dad always taught me, rest his soul, that basic 101, if you have gas getting to spark, SOMETHING out to happen.
I'll ask a series of questions and propose some possible solutions. Hopefully we'll crack this mystery. Warning, this might be a tad lengthy... ha
1. Is the spark plug firing?
To check the coil that sends spark to your spark plug and the plug itself:
You can remove the spark plug from your engine and reconnect it to the spark plug wire while it just lays on your mower. pull the starter rope (make sure you're holding down the kill lever on the handle). Look at your plug end as you pull the rope.
Got spark? If yes, go to the next step, flagged ***. If no, look at the end of your spark plug that would go into the engine. The "L" shaped finger should be gapped from the small circular shape on the plug... this is the "gap". Your manual may provide specs on how wide this gap should be. If there is no gap, your plug won't work properly. The "L" shape is a soft metal and can be bent... create the proper gap. Try the test again to see if the plug is sparking. If not, you may have an issue with your coil.
***Yes to spark. Let's look at the gas issue now. OPTION 1. I will tell you that in my experience, water in gas is a major culprit for a mower not running. You've replaced all the filters... good.
I'm not sure of your mower, but most models have a "bowl" bolted to the bottom of the carburator. Sometimes moisture can get in the gas, get trapped in the bowl and won't go away or won't allow gas to get to the spark. Loosen the bolt... it's ok if gas from the bowl spills from this, the bowl doesn't hold much gas and it won't drain your tank. Plus, this means your carbuator is allowing the gas from the tank to the bowl. As you are looking at the gas spilled on the mower deck, see if there are beads of water in it. As you know, water and gas doesn't mix. This would be a tell tale of the problem. I would carefully remove the bowl from the carb and wipe it dry, then reassemble the bowl.
To be on the for sure side that you have no more water in your system, you could disconnect your fuel line from the gas tank and drain it out. Use a jar or container... you can see water in the bottom of it. You can reuse the gas too... just don't include the water!
OPTION 2. If your carb and tank are now H2O free and you're still getting to results, you may have a clogged jet on your carburator. This little pin-hole passage allows gas to pass through to the spark. Sometimes a mower sitting up a while, can cause a laquer effect to gas and it can block this passage. Removal of the carburator from the engine is required and a simple pin can be pushed through this passage to knock a "plug" out.
Geez I hope I didn't miss anything! ha
Good luck to you... I hope it's a quick and easy fix.