Amp is shutting off after 10 min of driving!! please help!!
Alright, so i recently installed a Profile HA700M Mono subwoofer amplifier 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms and a 2 ohm Kicker TCVT102 Sealed truck enclosure with one 10'' CompVT subwoofer. For the first few days everything worked fine, but now im getting no sound out of the sub after about 10 minutes of driving. If i shut my truck off for a few minutes and start it back up, the sub will work again, and then do the same thing. I checked the voltage and i got a reading of 12.75, which i was told was ok. Im also running a much smaller amp to power 2 infinity kappa 63.7i speakers. I have the rca's going from my head unit to the sub amp, then from that amps line out to the speaker amp. The speakers never stop putting out sound... so it cant be a problem with the rca cables i think. The protect light never comes on, and the power light always stays on. I checked and rechecked all my connections, and they all seem fine. I have the sub amp grounded to the passenger side seat bolt, and i did sand away the paint. Before i installed the sub, i had the speaker amp grounded to the same spot and never had any problems. I now have the speaker amp under the drivers side seat, and the sub amp under the passenger seat. This is all installed in a 94 toyota pickup 4 cyl with the 22re engine. Hope thats enough info, if anyone needs more let me know. Thanks. Richie.
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Re: Amp is shutting off after 10 min of driving!! please...
Does it happen at all volume levels?
What is the gain setting on the sub amp?
Have you checked for 12V @ remote turn on after problem occurs?
Sounds as if the remote turn on relay inside the amplifier is losing signal, or has become damaged. If the protection light does not light up, the problem is not thermal, shorting, or high/low voltage.
The amplifier is in need of repair. This is not an end-user fix. Looking at about $50 to repair.
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No, your not over powering your L7, your underpowering your subwoofer.
Your Kenwood is
500W x 1 at 4ohms [20-200kHz 0.5% THD] 900W x 1 at 2ohms [100Hz 1.1% THD]
Your L7 is:
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)*
2000/1000But its ok for your subwoofer, alteast your not giving it to much stress. But personaly, get another mono amplifier that would match your subwoofers rating.
Yes, you will be fine. 4 gauge power wire is sufficient for a couple of reasons, the primary one being that most of the companies that are boasting 2000 watts for a 4 channel amp are off brand "web-retail only" companies, and they severely over rate the power output of their amplifiers. Secondly the supposed 2000 watts is peak power and not rms power. Peak power means how much power that amp can put out during absolue climax of the music or during a tone burst. RMS power is how much that amp will put out continously to your speakers or in this case, your subs. If you look at the spec sheet of that amp, in all actuallity you're probably only getting 200-300 watts rms even bridged.
On a side note, if you really want to push your subs hard, you might want to consider getting a mono block or "class d" amplifier and use that 4 channel amp to push your surround speakers. Class d/mono block amps are specifically designed to push subwoofers and will give you the most efficient power out and the best heat dissipation to withstand the output required to drive subwoofers. You'll get better bass and also more adjustability to tweak the sound levels coming out of your subs. Hope that helps.
Pump the brakes! You need to know the RMS power rating of the sub you are powering. Dont exceed the RMS power rating of the sub by more than 25%. If you see a peak power rating on either the sub or the amp, ignor it, means nothing. Always compare RMS ratings. Example: a Sony 12" Xplod sub, boasting 1200 watts, will only handle, 350 watts RMS, so the amp you choose to power the sub should be 350 watts RMS as well, and should not exceed more than 25% of the RMS power handling (487.5 watts). Bottom line, know your RMS numbers, not Peak.
Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle.
Hope this helps.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
The VS3507 Is a class D monoblock.
Your optimum wiring for this amplifier is a 2 Ohm load - so it produces its full potential power of 350W RMS.
To Achieve a 2 ohm load, the most common load is one of the following...
(1) Dual 4 Ohm Voicecoil Subwoofer Wired in Parallel.
(2) 4 Ohm Voicecoil Subwoofers wired in Parallel.
(1) Quad 2 Ohm Voicecoil Subwoofer wired in Parallel/Series.
(1) Single 2 Ohm voicecoil subwoofer.
American Pro VS3507 2000W Car Audio Monoblock Amplifier
American Pro VS3507 Monoblock Amplifier
Variable High/Low Pass Filters
Phase Shift Control
Bass Boost Control
Dancing Lights at the Rhythm of Music
Gold Plated Terminals
Power & Protection Circuit LED
1 x 250 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
1 x 350 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
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If the amplifier supports an RMS power output close to the RMS input power of the subwoofers then run the amplifier in stereo mode. For example 150 watts RMS X 4 channels driven at 20-20khz. (If you can provide a model # for the subs and the amp your looking at I can help you further with this decision.
Wiring for this is easy and simply involves matching the connectors for 2 of the channels (Front or Rear) to each of the subwoofers.
#2 Mono Bridged mode.
If the amplifier is lower power but mono bridgable you can bridge two Pairs of channels and power each of the subwoofers this way.
Generally speaking a 2 channel bridgable amplifier will be able to at least combine the wattage of each channel into a single monural channel and in many cases its actually higher.
So you would bridge the front 2 channels into a single bridged mode for one subwoofer. and then you could bridge the read 2 channels into another bridged mono channel for your other sub woofer.
For example if you had bridgable amplifier thats 50 watts RMS X 4 you coudl very likely (Generalization based on quality of amplifier) send 150 watts RMS to each subwoofer.
Again I would need to know what amp you're refering to to provide specific wiring instructions. Many Bridging amplifiers either have a single switch that will send them to bridged mode or you would use the positive + terminal from one channel and the negative - terminal from the other channel or a combination of both.