Question about Whirlpool SF362LXS Kitchen Range
Neither the broiler or oven's electric ignitor attempts to spark, although I did replace the oven ignitor just to make sure, still no "click" sound from ignitor. The oven lock is not on, I have reset the error codes on the electronic clock panel. I have also unplugged for over 10 minutes.
I have read about a "master lock" that sets in locking up both the gas and ignitors, that seems to fit these symptoms. The problem is do not know how to take the "lock" off, if thats it. Please help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Happy to help you!
I would advise you on this occasion to call service.
If the range is 10 years old or more do not invest a lot of money into it!
replace it under these circumstances
These guys are good!
A&E factory service does most brands warranty services.
They are open 7days/24hours nation wide.
call tonight! 1-800-905-9505
I am happy to assist you!
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Posted on Aug 25, 2008
SOURCE: JGBP33 BAKE IGNITOR
You did not post a complete model number, but this should help:
Take racks out of oven. Remove two screws at the very back of the oven bottom. Lift back side of bottom up and back a bit to remove oven floor. Remove flame spreader (one nut at center). ignitor is at the back left of burner, most likely a WB2X9154 (round style) ignitor. The entire burner can be removed rather easily at this point if you remove the two screws at the front and disconnect the ignitor wire (if you wish to have easier access to ignitor mounting screws.)
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Pull the burner caps, etc off the stove and completely dry the area ..Be sure to inspect each ignitor contact for cleanliness as well. If the ignitors have soapy buildup or water, around them, they can act like this.
You should be able to pull the burner caps and flame diffusers off and clean with a paper towel, and if needed, a light scouring sponge. Be careful not to scratch the surfaces, but scour the top of the ignitors carefully if you need to clean them.
Posted on Jul 31, 2010
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