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Re: how do i fit an electric shower to a tiled wall
You may be access the pipes from the other side of the wall containing those pipes. so rather than have to cut into your tiled wall, you will be cutting into whatever is on the other side of that stud wall.
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use the correct tile adhesive for the application
look for one that when dry is not affected by water
some are for floor tiles in showers and others for wall tiles
talk to a shop that sells tiles and they will advise of the correct adhesive to use
The shower arm should be screwed into an elbow inside the wall. Unscrew the shower arm by putting your pipe wrench on the arm and unscrewing in a counter clockwise direction ( lefty loosey, righty tighty ) . Measure the length of the arm going inside the wall and make sure your replacement has enough length to reach. Teflon tape the inside end ( the end going in the wall ) and wrap a rag around the new arm, then screw into the elbow going clock wise , stopping when it starts getting tight and with the bend facing downward. Install shower head.
Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.
Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.
Did you use plastic pipe? What about the shower head? Does it have a rubber o-ring in it? Pull the pipe out of the wall at the shower head and peek inside for the o-ring. If it is there, just snug up the pipe, do not over tighten. We were ready with crow bars in hand to destroy a brand new shower we just finished, because we thought we had w broken pipe, Then the owner says he torqued up the shower head as tight as he could and I read where it had to be just finger tight. One more place to check is the faucet itself, take off the trim ring and look in there for drips. It could be filling up the wall cavity and stay wet for days. I would take apart the drywall on the other side before busting up the tile again. Check it out.
You could make a base that would be framed up 2x4's and covered with a waterproofing membrane. lay concrete floor, sloped to drain (2piece) and tile. Or use a fibergass base that fits to studs. And then tile walls.
can you at all shorten the length of the arm to make the head lighter or can you do the adjustment near the tiles up tighter apart from this attach unsightly bracket from the head back to the wall at worst mate start pulling tiles off ouch ! wish i could more help glenn..
There are four golden rules for installing a shower enclosure. The first golden rule is to make sure that the shower tray is level. If it is not, then problems will occur throughout the rest of the installation. Use a good quality spirit level and where possible install a tray that has adjustable legs. There are often problems associated with tiling over upstands as some are thick and difficult to set into the wall. The second golden rule is to install a tray that has a slim tiling up stand which is vertical and an integral part of the tray: This will make the installation easier, quicker and ensure it is totally watertight. Before installing the shower enclosure the third golden rule must be followed. A silicone sealer needs to be applied all the way around the join where the tiles meet the tray: This must be sealed first, to ensure there is no chance of water getting behind the wall channels and then into the walls. This is one of the biggest problems associated with shower installations but is easily solved if the silicon sealer is applied before the enclosure is fitted. The final golden rule is to fit the enclosure to the tiled surface and not on to a plastered wall, tiling up to it afterwards. Having installed the enclosure it is essential to use the same high quality silicone sealer around the outside of the enclosure. Sealing on the inside will cause leaking- not prevent it.