Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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Diagnostic lights If you carefully open the display panel cover, (do not pull it hard or far apart), there is a service summary brochure. This tells you how to do a diagnostic and some testing. My test showed the last wash cycle light on and the first rinse light on. Does any one have a service manual that could tell me what this means?

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The spin light is 1 the next light is 2 going from right to left 1/2/4/8/16/32/64/128 so if spin light on and the first green light on in wash cycle you have a 1 and a 128 which equal 129 look on that sheet to see what it tells you all nubers are not on it though

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

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Installed new door lock still have e27 error code


The E27 error flashes on the washer LCD screen and stops the current load. Unplug your washer for 30 minutes and then plug it back in to reset the code
.
Open and close the door two or three times to reset the sensor. Sometimes the door has been closed too hard and the sensor reading fails.

You can manually release the latch by removing the lower panel (Torx fasteners, I think) and finding a wire lanyard that releases the latch. However, I had read that there was a diagnostic code that could be used to reset the latch solenoid via the control panel.

There is no service manual available on line, as far as I can tell.

Here is what worked...

1. Set the knob to off.

2. Hold down both the Spin Selector button and the Allergy Rinse button simultaneously.

3. While holding these two buttons down, rotate the knob one click to the left, to the "cold" position.

4. At that point, the display will show a diagnostic code and the unit will enter a self-test mode. In my case, the solenoid latch started clicking repeatedly. I pressed the Spin Selector button once or twice, which resulted in the display of new codes and then the release of the latch.

Oct 15, 2012 | Bosch WFVC6450UC Front Load Stacked Washer...

1 Answer

I have a Maytag Neptune MAH8700AWW with error code tE, lower case t and upper case E. What causes it. I finally got it in diagnostic mode and it says U133 but wont go any further.


"te" error code is caused by a faulty thermistor; likey cause is:
a. Loose wiring at the control panel (directly behind the cycle selector knob)
b. Broken wire at the thermistor (located at the bottom/front of the tub)

To access the wire plug connectors at the control pannel, remove the top cover of the washer. Stand in front of the washer and look for the plug connectors behind the control panel. Pull apart the plugs and re-install.

Test the washer. If the "te" error still occurs it will be neccesary to remove the front panel as well (two sets of special plier-type tools are needed).

Inspect the thermistor closely, with good lighting. If there's a break in the wire it will be at or near the black sheathing / heat shrink material.

Just like a reference guide, this service manual could helpful: MAH9700AW

Hope this helps.

Oct 07, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Code F 11


F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.

After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:

Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.

If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:

1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.

Jan 06, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I can not get the top and botome half of the agitator apart


you have to remove the top where you put the downy,should pull off but you might need a screw driver to pry it up,now there is a cover under that that pulss up,now there's a 7/16 bolt that has to be removed and you can get at the dogs,if you need any more help let me know

Feb 21, 2010 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

FISHER & PAYKEL TOP LOADER WILL NOT GO THROUGH ITS CYCLES AND WILL KEEP BEEPING WHAT IS WRONG?


I just had that problem. Do you have any water inside the washer? if you do drain it. Try running the diagnostic mode to drain the drain pump. then unplug the machine for 10 sec. then run the machine, that should take care of the problem. You'll find the service summary behind the control panel.

Feb 02, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

HE2 Plus blinks F-11


Look for the technical brochure. Mine was on the lower kick panel taped inside. I would not take off the back panel first. Maybe the top or the lower front if it is a front loader. It tells you how to do diagnostics and what the codes mean.

Jul 22, 2009 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer goes for about 2 min. and the reg f 11 and dl i know the dl is for the door lock but how do you fix the door lock and why is this f 11 thing going on


Fdl is a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.

After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:

Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.

If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:

1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.

Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.

May 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaving white lint on clothes


If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.


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Mar 17, 2009 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Fisher and Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 water will not drain out.How do you remove the pump to see if it is clogged ?


tilt the machine to get to the bottom and there is an electric pump that you can remove with no tools, you twist if out. after that is removed you should see what has clogged your pump.. I spent 4 hours disassembling my entire machine , cleaning it, trying to find out what was wrong. And the fix could of just taken me 1 minute.. Next time... But at least I know how to take everything apart now, very easy and simple machine to work on.

Mar 08, 2009 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

1 Answer

Not starting


"Fdl" is a door lock error code. This could be an indication of a loose door latch, a defective door latch mechanism, or a problem with the wiring harness from the Central Control Unit (CCU) to the door latch.

At the control panel select:

DRAIN SPIN,
NO SPIN,
and under OPTIONS press any key (has the be the same key) 4 times.

This places the washer into diagnostics mode. "C00" should be displayed on the screen and you should hear a distinctive "click" of the door latch. If diagnostics passes, the washer will run through a series of tests, tumble, drain and then spin. When completed, the unit will make an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light will be lit. If diagnostics fails (the door latch will attempt to lock 6 times before generating a fault code), UNPLUG the washer and remove the top cover. Remove the three screws holding the top panel in place on the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back then off. Inspect the wiring harness to the door latch and make sure the latch is not loose (mounted to the right-hand side of the door frame).

NOTE: You can stop diagnostics at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button.

If you determine the door latch is not loose, and you've checked all the connections from the CCU to the latch, you may have to replace the door latch assembly. Go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your COMPLETE model number in the Search menu. The part will be found under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading as item number 7. To replace, follow these instructions:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.

4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom.

Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and run diagnostics again.


Good luck to you and let me know if you have any further questions.

Apr 13, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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