Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range

Open Question

Oven Stops working (intermitent)

Model GRSR3920ZCC-1

When using oven, it will from time to time beep, then stop working.
when it does this, if I press the Bake button to turn it back on, it wont, I just hear a clicking sound. I found that most of the time, if I lock the door, start/stop auto-cleaning then unlock door, bake function will work afterwards. sometimes for good, sometimes for a few secons/minutes only before beeping again...

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6 Suggested Answers

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: JGBP28 Self cleaning works but oven does not

First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: mgr5875qdw

Hello sfgelectric,
Welcome,

You said, your broiler and oven won't work. That you set bake and it beeps and the bake light flashes but oven wont light.

Does the display flash any error codes, or just the bake light?



Fault codes
1. BAKE or LOCK may flash rapidly in the display to alert you if there is an error
or a problem. If BAKE or LOCK appear in the display, press the CANCEL pad.
2.If BAKE or LOCK continue to flash, disconnect power to the appliance.
3.Wait a few minutes, and then reconnect power. If the flashing still continues,
disconnect power to the appliance and call an authorized servicer.
4.If the oven is heavily soiled, excessive flareups may result in a fault code during
cleaning. Press the CANCEL pad and allow the oven to cool completely, wipe out
excess soil, then reset

For most concerns, try these first.
Check if oven controls have been properly set.
Check to be sure plug is securely inserted into receptacle.
Check or re-set circuit breaker. Check or replace fuse.
Check power supply

I'll check the repair manual to see what I can find.
Let me know how it goes.
Perhaps this will fix a glitch.
Huuum
Remember to leave a rating.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: EO F2 code

hi, this appears to be a fault caused by a short in your keypad - electronic range control (ERC)

this needs to be replaced unfortunatly.

To assist you finding the proper part your model numbel means that the oven is manufactured by Whirlpool for Sears/kenmore.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Spectra XL44 Gas Oven, flashing "Locked Door". Can't use oven or close door

I had the same problem happen tonight. I have an XL44 self-cleaning gas range. We unplugged it for several minutes and pressed 'cancel' a bunch of times--neither worked. We finally lucked out--opened the oven door and pressed a black button on the upper left side of the front of the oven. It turned out the flashing words and unlocked our door. Weird. There was nothing in the manual about this...

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore range model C970-628091 keeps beeping and flashing an F1 or F3 error code

Fridgetech is right. It's the temperature sensor. I had the same problem, but I was getting the F3 and F2 errors when attempting to preheat the oven.
A R Marshall said that he replaced the sensor but he still got the same F3 error. That happened to me too! It worked for a few weeks, then it began to malfunction again. It finally started showing preheated as soon as the oven was turned on, but never heated at all. One night at 3AM, the error code and beeper went off while we were sleeping! That happened on several occasions at various times of day, and it was necessary to kill the power to stop it. The power could then be restored and the error would stop.
Ours is a Hotpoint range (made by GE). It's my understanding that most ranges have the same or similar error codes.
The sensor was $85.00 at the parts store, but I got it on line for about $60.00 including shipping. The instructions said to strip the wires and then twist them together with wire nuts. But the new sensor had a plug that fit so I used it, and it worked for a short while.
As I looked through the problems and possible solutions, someone said look for burnt wires. So I opened it up and looked but there was nothing like that. Then I remembered the instructions that said to hard wire, so I examined the plug which seemed to have one short wire inside. I plugged it back in and tested with the same negative results. Now suspecting the plug I cut off both sides, stripped the wires and hard wired using two small wire nuts. It immediatly began working normally!
Something is wrong with the plug connector.
Try cutting out the plug and hard wiring before ordering a new part. But if you need a new part, eliminate the plug!
May God bless you and keep you safe!
Fridgetech is right. It's the temperature sensor. I had the same problem, but I was getting the F3 and F2 errors when attempting to preheat the oven.
A R Marshall said that he replaced the sensor but he still got the same F3 error. That happened to me too! It worked for a few weeks, then it began to malfunction again. It finally started showing preheated as soon as the oven was turned on, but never heated at all. One night at 3AM, the error code and beeper went off while we were sleeping! That happened on several occasions at various times of day, and it was necessary to kill the power to stop it. The power could then be restored and the error would stop.
Ours is a Hotpoint range (made by GE). It's my understanding that most ranges have the same or similar error codes.
The sensor was $85.00 at the parts store, but I got it on line for about $60.00 including shipping. The instructions said to strip the wires and then twist them together with wire nuts. But the new sensor had a plug that fit so I used it, and it worked for a short while.
As I looked through the problems and possible solutions, someone said look for burnt wires. So I opened it up and looked but there was nothing like that. Then I remembered the instructions that said to hard wire, so I examined the plug which seemed to have one short wire inside. I plugged it back in and tested with the same negative results. Now suspecting the plug I cut off both sides, stripped the wires and hard wired using two small wire nuts. It immediatly began working normally!
Something is wrong with the plug connector.
Try cutting out the plug and hard wiring before ordering a new part. But if you need a new part, eliminate the plug!
May God bless you and keep you safe!

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: My oven won't heat

First you will need to verify if the igniter is coming on for the oven burner when the oven is turned on. You will need to remove the oven bottom cover. There is usually two screws at the back bottom of the oven compartment that holds the bottom on. If there are no screws then it should just lift out. You may need to slide the bottom away from you then lift from the back. You will need to remove the oven racks to make enough room to lif the bottom out. Once removed you should be able to see the burner(you may also need to remove a heat spreader on the burner). Now turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start to glow. If it does then you will need to make sure the gas orfice and venturri for the burner are not plugged with debris. You can use a small can of compressed air to try and dislodge any debris. Then give the oven gas valve a light tap with a screwdriver or a wrench. Oven gas valve is usually located at the bottom of the oven. Remove the bottom storage compartment to reach it. If you tap it and the burner comes on there may have just been debris in the valve and you may have cleared it. Then turn the oven off and back on completely several times. If the burner comes back on you should be ok if it does not then it could be a weak hot surface igniter or a bad olven gas control valve. Now going back to the start if the igniter does not come on you will need to verify if the igniter is getting voltage. If it is then test the igniter with a ohm meter. The reading should usually be between 500 to 700 ohms. A common problem with hot surface igniters is that they will crack. Examine the igniter for any visible cracks. If the igniter is not getting voltage then you will need to verify that all wires are properly connected and none have come loose. Look for any melted wires from the self cleaning process. You may need to dis-assemble the back of the range to see if any wires have come loose or melted. Now I need to stress to you that safety is important. Be very careful performing these procedures. You can get shocked or possible burned.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
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then cancel the self clean.

do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.


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