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What is happening is that your cold water flow is greater in volume (gals per min) than your hot water. So when you open the cold water it is mixing with the hot water inside the faucett or shower plumbing and actually reverse flowing back into the hot water heater plumbing. The reverse flow slows the water flow sensing turbine inside the heater and it is thinking that there is not any water flow. (There isn't actually due to the equalization of water pressure when you open the cold water faucett) Since this is a safety feature of the tankless heater to keep it from overheating, it shuts off.
Somewhere in the hot water plumbing there is a major restriction. It may very well be the internal plumbing of the tankless hot water heater or the flow detector design.
There are 2 ways to correct this. The easy way would be to restrict the available cold water flow. You can do this by installing another shut off valve inline with the cold water plumbing and just not open the valve all the way. You would have to adjust the setting so that the hot and cold water can be on at the same time and the hot water heater stays on. The hard way is to locate the hot water flow restriction and eliminate it.
It is possible.... if you have a flow restrictor in a shower head or a screen in a faucett areator that they are partially clogged. Clean any flow restrictors and screens then see how the hot water heater performs before you start modifying plumbing.
there is often a screen located in the hose end ... you can clean, replace or remove the screen and always replace the hose washers but its far better to replace both hoses with good quality new ones .. the safe lifetime of the hoses is only a few years ... so its a good idea to replace them every few years anyhow ... while you have the hoses off you can check water flow to make sure the shut off valves are not clogged .. (make sure they were both fully "on" to start with) .. if there is good water flow and the screens are not clogged then you may have a clogged solonoid valve (just inside the machine at the water inlets) (has wires going to it also)
Water inlet valve at back of unit may be partially clogged, no repairs on this part, unless it comes apart and has a stainless steel wire mesh strainer that can be cleaned ( not likely), only replacement. BpB
Here are the eco related error codes for your washer.. 1)Light 3 (eco) flashes. Water is present in the flood catching tray at
the bottom which usually indicates that there is a leak somewhere. More
often than not this is just a pipe with a poor fitting and simply
tightening the clip is enough to stop the leak. Our machine had a very
slow leak from one pipe (not enough to trigger the alarm) which was
fixed in this way. The leak is detected by a small float switch located
in the flood catch tray.
Undo 4 screws on the metal plate under the dishwasher 3 at the front 1
at the back, this reveals The pump check the seals are in place on the
Wash indicator lights 3 + 5 (eco + pre) flashing rapidly. Filter is clogged. Pull out the filter and clean it. 3)Runs for approx. 3 minutes and then stops. Lights 3 + 4 (eco and fast)
flash. Probably caused by being plumbed into a hot rather than cold
water supply. The incoming water is hotter than required for the wash
which causes the machine to cut out. Plumbing the machine into a cold
water supply will fix the problem with no apparent long term problems.