My ranger run's fine on level but on hill's

purchace a new pan gasket and filter . put car on hoist . remove pan bolts use a screw driver pry pan carrfully from trans mission being careful not to bend pan edge [gasket seals there] pour oil from pan into pail with out spilling . wipe floor of any drips so you dont slip . remove filter 2 bolts normaly replace filter make sure o ring if it has one hasnt fallen out . clean and replace pan torque bolts to 28ft lbs . lower car fill with 3 liters oil start, idle ,check level add till full dont over fill dont hurry . let run for a bit look under car foe any leaks this is a basic trans filter oil change for all makes.

Sounds like you may have blown a head gasket. Did you check the coolant level to see if it is low ?

hI you have bad rIng posten add 2 oIl stop smok and new spark and oIl 20/50 thIs shuld help you .

Drop your oil pan and remove the gasket, You will see your oil pump under your crank shaft. You will be able to remove it from here

The oil pump may have gone bad. Involves dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pump, check the pan for any metal peices.

There is not a nut on the transmission oil pan like what you find on an oil pan. You can either take your Van to a auto service department and get a super transmission flush (about $60-$80) which I do not recommend, as they do not change out the filter or gasket. OR:
Remove the 10-mm bolts on the pan, and change the fluid, filter and gasket yourself. Be careful as that pan is filled with fluid and will drop and splash quickly. I use a large drip pan to catch all the fluid. Add fluid slowly using a funnel, poured into the tube where the dip stick is in. When it is surely on the dip stick, I start the engine and let is circulate a few minutes. Then check the level and add more. When the engine is at normal operating temperature, I aim for near that top notch on the dip stick. Do NOT Overfill!
41TE (4-speed) has 9.1 quarts. 31TH (3-speed) has 8.5 quarts.
HINTS:
Make sure you clean both the pan, and pan-to-gasket area.(I use acetone) as well as the gasket-to-transmission area before installing the new gasket.
Tighten the pan bolts to 15 ft-lbs.
Filter to valve body srews (if equipped) 45 in-lbs.
Good Luck and let me know if this helped!

Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique

Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.

The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.

External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.

Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from the intake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal. A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor.

If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.

Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.

Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.

I think it helps to analyse u r Problem

Have you checked your catalytic converter?  I had this problem with my '96 2500 5.9l on long hills and it was really sluggish on steep hills. I thought it might be the transmission not down shifting but it turned out to be the catalytic converter was clogged.