IHAVE A BOSCH SANDER. IT ISN'T RUNNING AS WELL AS IT USED TO AND SOMEONE SUGGESTED CLEANING THE BUSHINGS. I'VE TAKEN APART THE SANDER AND FOUND THEM. THEY DON'T LOOK DIRTY. BUT, WHAT SHOULD I CLEAN THEM WITH?
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Re: CLEANING SANDER BUSHINGS
It's usually not the brushes but the commutator that needs cleaned. The commutator is the surface the brushes ride on. Go to Walgreens and buy a multi-surface nail file, one of the soft ones that are about 3/4" square with different colors for different grits. Don't start at the coarse grit!! Start at the medium grit and lightly drag it over each section in a smooth arcing motion, when the commutator surface is shiny it's clean, then replace the brushes with new ones.
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you have to remove the platen on the bottom also, go to makitausa.com and you can download a parts explostion for this tool to see what I am talking about. If I have helped you would you please vote accordingly and thank you
That pad is usually made of cork or graphite It's used to give the back side of the sanding belt a soft and slippery surface to run on so it won't over heat/tear and fail. The part you need is P/N 2601098037 Any Bosch service center will be able to get one for you. Go to BoschTools.com and look under "find a service center"
This is generaly due to previous adhesive buildup on the backing pad OR, the face of the backing pad is breaking down and cracking.There are two ways to handle this. You can try scrubing the crud off the pad (I wouldn't) or, you can get a new backing pad for your sander. At this point, you might want to go with a velcro type pad or hook and loop as they call it (cleaner and no goop). Check your local home depot for pads. If you cannot find one, I would suggest you call Klingspor abrasives Co. They have area reps all over the United States. I know, as I used to be one of them.They carry,.. and will send you pads via UPS. Just make sure you don't try to put a 6in pad on a 5in sander or vice-versa as the pads are weight-mated to the sanders. If you do, you will burn up the motor in your sander rather quickly.
Remove the dust bag and unplug sander for now. Everywhere you see an access hole (fan area, dust port, back of sander blow thru the tool to remove lodged dust that clogged the system, Also look for broken belt pieces in the back of sander. Then while running (remove belt) blow again thru all the ports to try and reomve as much contamination as possible. When finished you can feel to see if air coming from dust bag port, it not you still have a clog that might need more work. If I have clarified your request would you please rate this response accordingly and thank you.
wear inhibitor part number 86355 has broken on you. When this part brakes it brakes into tiny pieces which then leave the case so it hard to tell whats wrong. They don't make this part any more as the 7404 was discontinued in October 1975. I hoped this helped. I have the same problem.
You did not specify how the sanding discs are meant to be attached to your sander's backing pad. My experience with this type of problem is material from the sanding process builds up on the backing pad and does not allow the sanding discs to adhere properly.
If you have a velcro type system, clean the hooks on the sander's backing bad by soaking the pad's face in a plate of paint thinner for 20 to 30 minutes then use a wire brush to remove the rest of the paint physically.
For adhesive pads clean the sander's backing pad surface with denatured alcohol. Do not use isopropryl or rubbing alcohol as this may not be 100% alcohol and could contain a lubricant like glycerin. When the sander's backing pad is completely dry and clean it will hold adhesive backed pads fine.
Flaky paint is best scraped off before sanding, use a wide putty knife or a paint scaper to remove large flakes before sanding. This will minimize airborne dust and cleanup.
For best results with adhesives, always keep your surfaces clean!
Good luck and happy sanding! Michael Mittelsdorf