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Re: Dryer does not heat... clothes only air fluff, not...
Sound like the heat coil is broken or burnt out..you can get one at an appliance parts supply store...but the only way to get it in is to take apart the dryer it is the back of the dryer that containt the heat coil...
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Most likely problem is the exhaust is plugged. Lint build up and eventually restricted the humid exhaust air.
To test for this locate the exhaust vent where it exits the house. With the dryer running feel for the air flow. It should be similar to the flow you feel from hair dryer.
Second test is to light load the dryer setting the heat to high and after several minutes of operation open the door and confirm the clothes are hot to the touch.
Hot clothes and no air flow for ever to dry!!
Remove hose from wall connection. Confirm vent hose not plugged by running dryer. Very dusty process. If no air step 2.
Remove vent hose from back of dryer. Confirm air flow from dryer. Very dusty process. No air step 3.
Service dryer blower likely plugged with lint. If dryer basket turns I would assume blower is also turning connected by drive belt. The blockage internal to dryer.
So if not 1,2 or 3 than blocked vent hose to the outside . Suggest using a vacuum hose to carefully try to retrieve lint build up. Lets hope that it is not a roof vent because it would really suck trying to pull the blockage out. And unless your Santa roof tops are dangerous places to play.
Well at least at this point we know why the clothes are not getting dry. What ever you do do not breach the venting in the walls. Moisture will build up along with the lint and create havic with mold!!!
If it is taking a long time to dry, but still has heat, try cleaning out under the lint trap. Take the whole lint trap off and clean the panel and path the lint is sucked through. I did this to mine and it made a HUGE difference! There was a ton of lint packed around the panel and only a small opening left where the air flowed into the exhaust. With our dryer (Maytag) I had to take the front panel off to get to the area where the lint was.
The lint trap is a metal screen with a plastic handle that is located either near the corner at the top of your dryer, or inside the dryer door. In most cases, the lint trap is clearly marked. If your clothes are not drying properly, this is the first place to look because it is the easiest problem to solve. Remove the lint from your lint trap, and then see if your clothes get dry. If they do not, move to the next troubleshooting problem. Vent Hose
To work properly, a dryer needs to be able to vent warm air. If the vent hose is clogged, bent or has a hole in it, your dryer will not work properly. Examine the vent hose to see if it is installed completely over the dryer exhaust vent, and to make sure it does not have a hole in it. Remove the vent hose to see if it is clogged. There are vent hose brushes you can purchase to clean the vent hose properly. Also check the exhaust vent on the dryer and the outside vent to make sure they are not clogged.
If you have been running your dryer with a clogged vent hose for a while, you may burn out the thermal fuse. A burnt thermal fuse will allow the dryer drum to rotate, but the unit will not heat up. Your owner's manual will show you where the thermal fuse is and provide the part number you need to buy to replace it. Thermal fuses are available at most hardware stores and are easy to replace. Heating Element
The heating element is the long, coiled wire in the dryer that heats up the air. Over time, the heating element can burn out or become defective. In some models, the heating element can be repaired; in other models, the heating element should be replaced. Refer to your user's manual to see where your heating element is and whether you can repair it or need to replace it.
There are several reasons why a dryer would not heat up the clothes.
The vent is plugged with lint or the blower set-screw is loose (blower slips on the motor shaft instead of spinning full speed). If you do not have good airflow at the outside exhaust when the dryer is running, you'll need to check the ductwork all the way back to the lint trap. If the lint trap is torn, repair or replace it.
The heaters are not working due to a bad contact in the timer or one of the two thermostats. Check for continuity in the heater circuit with the dryer unplugged.
The heaters are burned out. Note the plural - most dryers have two heaters, one for low heat, the other for medium, and both for high. Try a different heat setting and see if you get warm air. If you do, the heater you normally use is the problem.
Sorry for the obvious.....
Fluff on the cloths is from the lint trap not capturing it from the air flow.
Air is passed into the clothes from the laundry room. It is heated and then passed over the clothes... then filtered air is forwarded to the outside exhaust.
If you are seeing lint on your clothes, then the air coming in from your laundry area is not lint free.
1. check the back/bottom of the dryer for lint accumulation.
2. Remove the lint trap and clean out the duct work.
3. Inspect all the flooring and areas around the dryer for dust/lint - and clean any that you find.
I believe that you will then have a clean and dry load.
The proceedure of cleaning described above should be repeated every 6 months or so....
Does the dryer heat up or is it just cool air drying the clothes ? If it does actually dry the clothes eventually then it sounds like it is heating up. First thing to check would be exhaust hose. Is warm air blowing out of it ? If warm you got heat. If cool then your heating element isn't working. It should be fairly strong current of very warm air. If weak but warm, then somewhere between lint filter and end of hose you have a blockage caused by lint buildup or hose is bent and blocking air flow. Check hose first. You can disassemble lint trap and go beyond the lint screen into metal duct within dryer and clean with a long brush and vacuum. You can also disconnect exhaust duct flexible hose at back of dryer and work through metal duct from that end too. If you notice increased air flow then it should solve problem,
Fresh air is drawn in past the heating element into the drum out through the lint trap and exhausted outside the building. If the dryer protection systems are operating properly they will sense the over temperature and shut off power to the heating element via thermal switches. This will cause the elements to cycle on and off and reduce the drying ability.
Things to check.
First make sure you fill the dryer only about half full of clothes, usually the dryer capacity is around twice the washer capacity for this reason.
Second, make sure your lint trap and exhaust duct work from inside the dryer all the way outside are free from lint build-up. You should clean or have the dryer duct work cleaned either every year or two depending on the amount of drying you do.
Third, suspect is the dryer thermostat stuck in the on position. You may be able to test your drying temperatures by selecting (cold) fluff air setting, then the low setting and so on to see if that's working properly. If you can read electrical drawings, usually the manufacturer includes a diagram inside the control panel for service techs to refer to. You can test the flow of air out of the dryer by removing the hose from the exhaust, it should have a good volume of air when the dryer is running. After hooking the hose back to the exhaust duct work, check outside the building for the same air flow and don't forget to clean any outside flaps that keep the rodents out of the duct work.
Keep your lint low by not over drying your clothes. You will cut down on lint and prolong the life of your clothes! Dryers are one of the simplist appliances to figure out, unless they have complicated electronic control panels.
Have you checked the entire run of the exhaust vent ducting? Cleaning the lint trap is not nearly enough to keep a dryer running efficiently.
A simple test you can try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load as you normally would. With the hose removed and the dryer running, the air leaving the exhaust of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is weak or non-existent, you have a clog INTERNAL to the dryer. You will have to inspect the air blower fan housing and ducting inside the dryer to ensure the blower fan is not obstructed in any way. If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry like they should, you have a clog somewhere in the DUCTING from the point where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. You will need to inspect the exhaust ventilation for any clogs or kinks.
If you can see the heating element glowing, you probably don't have a problem with the heating circuitry. If you haven't checked the dryer ventilation recently, now might be a good time to do so. Leaving a dryer in a clogged, or poorly ventilated condition can cause the dryer heating circuits to over heat to the point of failure. In addition, this can also create a fire hazard.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.