Question about AudioBahn A2300HCT Car Audio Amplifier

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Ground wire burnt plactic cover on amp where wire goes in

Well i guess the ground wire had been making contact with the plastic cover on my amp where the ground wire goes in and has burnt the plastic cover on the the amp where the wire goes in and it also burnt the plastic cover on the ground wire aswell now my amp dont work .... how do you think i can fix this problem

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  • Perry Babin May 11, 2010

    You should first 'try' to get a replacement from Audiobahn. If that's not possible and the metal of the block isn't damaged, you can straighten it and solder it back into the board but you'll need a relatively high power soldering iron.



    Does the board look damaged?

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REPLACE THE WIRE MAKE SURE IT DOSE NOT RUB AGAIN REPLACE FUSE IF THAT DOSE NOT WORK SOME COMPONENTS MAY HAVE BURNT UP HAD TO SAY WITH OUT LOOKING AT IT TAKE THE COVER OFF SEE HOW BAD IT IS GOOD LUCK

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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Hello laramoe,

For the lowest resistance connection, your ground wire needs to be in good solid contact with bare metal of the vehicle frame or body within about 18-24" from the amp. The ground is probably the most important connection you'll make to the amp. A bad one will not only rob your amp of the current it needs for best performance, it could result in damage to the amp or the vehicle itself. The ground should be the FIRST connection you make, and you should spend some time making sure that it is a good one. At the absolute minimum, you should test the "resistance" between the negative battery terminal and your intended ground point. Anything above about 5 ohms and you should look for a better ground. 2-4 ohms is OK, but you'll lose some input current and that means less output. I like my meter to read 1 ohm or less, before I'm really happy with the ground connection.

You may need to pull back plastic panels and/or carpeting to get to the metal. Then, find an existing bolt or screw that goes into or through the metal (a seat bolt is good, and most trunk, hood, and many dash screws go into metal). If you are unable to find an existing screw or bolt, you can drill a hole and attach the ground with a new "self-tapping" sheet metal screw. If you do decide to drill, use a drill stop and be VERY careful around any lines or hoses. Use sandpaper or a small Dremel grinder to remove any paint, undercoating, or soundproofing materials from around the hole. Crimp the ground wire to a "ring" terminal and put a toothed lockwasher under the terminal. Make sure that the head of your screw is sized to completely surround the ring terminal and tighten it until the lockwasher bites slightly into the metal. DO NOT overtighten, or it will strip and come loose. If you wish, you can cover it with dielectric grease (like mechanics use on battery terminals) or you can seal around it with silicone. You can also spray-paint it with a corrosion resistant paint. Rust Oleum flat black works well.

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what type of terminal is on the amp. screw or slip on type?

The plastic does not carry any type of ground. If your ground wire was melted, that means you have a 'hot' wire shorting across the ground somehow causing a short. This causes excessive heat like an 'arc' welder.

You might want to check your power wire to make sure its not making any contact to ground. Make sure any foreign debris is not causing a 'bridge' between the 2 posts.

If your terminals (or place where you hook up power and ground wires) are in good shape, re-wire and turn on the unit.

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try this it may help
the amp body may need to be grounded in addition,
try screwing it to contact a metal surface or run the ground wire to the amp body and then loop it to ground terminal have fun

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