I am replacing the double bareel 24 amp contactor relay switch in my Rheem air condenser. I purchased a non-Rheem contactor switch that is also double barrel and 24 amp. However, the connections do not match the original switch. Do I plug in the conncetion on the corresponding sides or is this much more difficult? Help please.
Re: Replace Contactor Relay on Rheem Air Condenser
I have a Rheem heat pump/airconditioner, Mod # RPFA-036JAS, that I have had problems with for at least 5 years and have paid over $1,000 in parts and service calls. I can vever recreate the problem when a tech is here. It usually happens in the middle of the night. I hear a Click, ckick, click sound, through the unit and it sounds like it is comming out of my air handler, but the outside unit also clicks at the contactor and the condensor cooling fan moter will start and stop about every half secongd or second. Both contactors have been replaced, the small one twice, one capaciter
has been replaced. I allow the unit too cool down and its alright for a few hours. That is difficult when the outside temp is below zero. HELP PLEASE!
Re: Replace Contactor Relay on Rheem Air Condenser
You just need to go wire for wire on the contactor. You can also draw a wire diagram to make sure wires go into same spots.Make sure power is off for safety purposes. As long as amperage of contactor and voltage of coil is correct you should be fine.
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Hello, a contactor is a switch/relay that turns on and off the power to the compressor and condenser fan motor. It is located in outdoor unit in the control panel. You can follow the wires leading into the outdoor unit and they lead to the contactor.
First, power everything down! You will need to climb on top and remove the cover. Inside you will see the compressor, condenser grill, a contactor-relay and capacitor. Most likely it is either the capacitor or contactor-relay (70% probability) or the compressor (25%). If you see ice build up on the connections or on the condenser grill it could be that you are low on freon or have a leak in your sealed system.
If things look normal then I would go with the contactor-relay and capacitor. If things are iced up, you will need trained technician help. Most AC shops will work on it, but won't have the Dometic parts. An RV place will have the parts but you usually pay a premium price for the labor and service.
C- is common/ground of the board FM transformer
R-is 24 volts to the board FM transformer
B- is to energize reversing valve for heat from thermostat.
D- energizes the electric heat in defrost mode.
Y-comes from the thermostat and energizes the compressor and condenser fan motor by pulling in the contactor.
you have 24 volts from the indoor thermo to the transformer in the air handler then 24volts from air handler to the contactor when this is energized it goes to 240 volts to run the compressor and outdoor fan. Sounds like the contactor is not enegizing check the voltage at the contactor. you should have a schematic to show you the voltage.
I would replace the contactor if you are getting 24 volts to the contactor and it isn't engaging therefore the magneto on the contactor is out and the contactor will need replacement. If you don't have 24 volts at the contactor then the transformer that sends the 24 volts is bad and will need replacing
It is possible that the relay in the thermostat for "cooling" has gone bad. The relay that runs the blower is different than the condenser relay. Check that you have 24v AC coming from the t-stat to the "y" terminal at the air handler. That same "y" wire should go out to the condenser, make sure then that you have 24v out there. If you have 24v at the condenser then see if the contactor is pulling in. If not then you may have a loss of charge switch that is stopping the current to the contactor. See if you have 24v to the coil of the contactor. If the contactor is pulling in and power is going to the compressor then the compressor has failed. If this is the case the condenser fan will be running but the compressor is not. If neither the condenser fan or the compressor is running then you have a problem in the 24v circuit, which could be a bad wire or a safety switch.
As you can see there are a number of possibilities for your problem. You will need to methodically go through everything to eliminate the possiblities till you isolate the problem,
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem and get you cooling again!
Double check that the new contactor has the same electrical ratings on it. My guess is that the coil should be 24v while the relay should be able to carry the same amperage at 220v.
First shut off the breaker and disconnect switch for the furnace and outdoor condenser and call a licensed HVAC contractor:)
If you are determined to do it yourself, Then read the schematics first. Be aware, if you mis wire the system you may cause more damage than you have now. Not to mention your personal safety is at risk.
I am basing this on the most common style contactor found in my area.
The main relay side should be labeled. (eg. L1,L2-T1, T2). These should match exactly like the old one. L1 and L2 are the incoming power. T1 and T2 are the power leaving the contactor. All the 220v wires should correspond to one of these four terminals either by screwing them down or fitting the spade connectors together.
Usually the 24v wires will plug onto the coil (near the bottom, left and/or right sides of the contactor) silver spade connectors.
(STEP 1.) Leave all Wires Connected to your Old Contactor.
(STEP 2.) Remove the two mounting screws that hold the Old Contactor to the Air Conditioners casing.
(STEP 3.) Now Install the New Contactor to the old contactors existing location using the Same two Screws.
(STEP 4.) Now take Off one wire at a time from your old Contactor and
Install each wire one at a time to the proper location on the new