From what you've written for your problem, I would say that your pressure switch is malfunctioning, as this is the part that regulates when the unit starts and shuts down.
It might just be the settings of the load spring, If your familiar with working on electrical devices see if you can manually engage or disengage the pressure switch. If this turns the unit of and on, it leaves you with only two problems. The unit is not reading the pressure or it's not sensing the pressure. Either way it calls for a pressure switch replacement
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Dewalt sells a rebuild kit for the regulator (my be part # N008792). You could try lubing the internal parts before ordering the kit. With no air in the tank, remove the plastic knob assembly and pull out the small piston. In the center of the valve body will be a small brass plunger. You should be able to push this plunger in with thumb pressure. If stuck, remove the nut on the back of the valve and lube the plunger with grease (pull the plunger off the back-nut if stuck in place). Lube the piston and cylinder (black plastic piece) with grease and reinstall. The small piston has a lip seal that should point toward the body of the manafold. For emergency air, remove the safety pop-valve and install a tee fitting. On this tee fitting reinstall the safety valve on one port and a quick disconnect on the other. You can draw air out of the tank at full pressure untill you repair the regulator. Good luck
Hello. Using compressed air for cleaning raises a couple of issues. I can only assume you know not to point at people, and not to blow the debris toward any one. Will it clean dirt off a windowsill? - Depending on the dirt, yes. if it is loose grit/dust or sawdust - no problem. It might not take off baked on materials and will only appear to remove black mould (that stuff will remain in the form of roots and spores in the wood/paint).
As to cleaning the car engine, it will assist, but be advised: it can/may drive particles into areas that may not be desireable. I have seen compressors used to blow off parts after they have been cleaned properly... but again, safety first.
The bottom line is it will do a fair majority, but it is not an industrial model with a huge tank. This means depending on the air flow volume and furation, the pressure may fall below what may be considered "efficient".
If the air-hammer is working fine at first but then starts to fail as you use it. I would look at the breaker unit, see if it is covered with frost. These units require a lot of air. A 1inch hose is usually used to connect it to the air supply. If you are not using an oiler, that could be the problem. Check that the hose is in good shape and is free from damage or kinks. Check the air gauge and see what the compressor is creating for air. The compressor should be building and maintaining 125 to 175 psi. I am guessing that you have this hammer hooked up to some type of worm drive system. Let me know if I can be anymore help.
I had the same problem. The relief valve loosened up after a couple years of use. Right around the center pin in the relief valve is a ring that has a slot in it that you can fit a small straight blade screwdriver into and tighten in a clockwise direction. This should tighten the spring on the relief valve and raise the pop-off pressure above the 150 psi setting of the cutout switch.
THESE HAVE TWO COMMON PROBLEMS. FIRST IS THE SMALL LINE FROM THE COMPRESSOR TO THE CHECK VALVE ON THE TANK LEAKING. OFTEN IT IS DAMAGED WHEN THROWING THE THINK IN THE TRUCK. THE OTHER PROBLEM IS THE TEFLON SEALING RING ON THE PISTON. AFTER SO MUCH USE IT SIMPLY WEARS OUT AND MUST BE REPLACED. I THINK IT IS A PISTON/ROD/SEAL RING ASSEMBLY, ALL ONE PIECE.
Check for leaks of course... THEN check the check valve AND the Compression Relief valve which is OFTEN cintained in teh pressure switch. This valve bleeds the compression left in the head so the thing can restart without a pressure load. This is a small pintle that closes when the pressure switch starts the compressor. The check valve is the other thing and it is often a part of either the head or the pressure line to the tank at the tank.