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Re: tire keeps rolling off
I'd say you have the wrong size tires, or at least defective or poor quality ones. They should be pretty tricky to get onto the wheels, requiring some leverage as you work them on, but they should be a very tight fit which will prevent them from moving. Sounds like the tires are too lose to me.
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well you didn't mention a model or even mfg. so all I can give you is a general method of changing a blade on a std bandsaw
1st: locate the table cutouts , there are sometimes two of these , slide them out to leave a gap in table
2nd open top and bottom blade cover , swing back (this is a good time to clean this out)
3rd locate the blade tension knob this is always on the opposite side you stand on to use saw(reason is next)
4th slowly back off tension of saw blade , till blade falls off top or bottom wheel Or both
5th carefully feed the old blade out of saw guides top and bottom till blade comes out free, careful even old blades can still cut you
6th remove new blade from package (caution !!! spring steel) do not k-##-k the blade get it till teeth of blade are all on one side, might take a bit of fenniest to do so
7th slide new blade into saw guides(teeth out towards operator position) , top and bottom , I use a bit of sticky tape to hold mine there (it's 179 inches long) position the new blade to top and bottom pulleys (again sticky tape helps a lot)
8th slowly tighten the tension pulley (top) till the blade stays there all by itself No tape , remove all tape now , hard to do later
9th slowly turn the pulleys over by hand as you tension the blade , this produces a even tension and your less likely to break the new blade , continue till blade rides in center of both pulleys or it's pretty tight , I flick it with my fingernail if it rings (like a guitar) then its tight enough (I know the sound well)
10th ck all your saw guides for proper clearance , I use a piece of note paper , u should just be able to get it in along the side , but blade cant be aloud to twist at all , there are usually three guides on both top and bottom
11th close all covers up replace table cutout and run saw if it walks the blade off then ck your pulley alignments and the tires on rim of them ,tires do go bad every 500 hours or so keep a set on hand 4 fast swap out
Are you using new tires? Urethane or rubber? Make sure the adjustment are correct or probably you need to replace the tires. I am using ulta blue urethane tires because it lasts longer and it doesn't need gluing. Urethanes are more durable than rubber. I got mine on http://bandsawparts.com/ultra_blue_urethane_tires.cfm .
The blade on a band saw stays on the wheels because they are aligned in a way to keep it there. Several things can be wrong to make the alignment off enough that the blade won't stay on. Check the condition of the tire and that the wheel isn't bent. Then check that the bearings and lower drive shaft are not damaged. Another remote possibility is a bent frame that throws the alignment out of wack.
I'm not a Jet tech, just a bandsaw owner. First, when you are adjusting the tracking knob, are you turning the wheel by hand for several revolutions to be sure which way it is running before making another adjustment? After tweaking it, you should turn it a bit to let it settle in. Also, be sure to tighten the adjustment knob down before turning it on. The bearing guides have more adjustment places than just the finger adjusters. On mine, a Steel City, I can move the entire guide holders back and forth, and can also move the entire guide set up back and forth. The guides are there to keep your blade from having too much movement while cutting. They are not supposed to actually touch the blade though. I adjust mine with a dollar bill between the guide and blade. If you have one guide that isn't exactly perfect, don't worry about it. The blade guard will also keep the blade from wandering. I've never used my bandsaw for scrolling work, so am not familiar with the 1/8 inch blade. Should work if you can get your tire adjusted correctly.
I hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a vote or comment. Thanks,
Assuming the wheel tires are in good condition and the blade is in good condition, the only thing left is method of installation. Make sure the tensioner is disengaged and put the blade on starting with the blade guard (long thin channel at top), then around the wheels, then finally in the block guides ( the two small guides at the bottom. Make sure the set screws on the guide are loose as well). Next tighten the block guide set screws and then make sure the blade hasn't shifted. It should be sitting centered on the wheel rubber all the way around. If everything looks good, engage the tensioner and test run. On a side note, the wheel tires have small notches that work like gears that often pop up, make sure they are all pushed in properly. Good Luck!
My jet bandsaw did same thing only fix was new tires .Tires are supposed to be tite on wheel .get wood dowels between tire and wheel and roll new tire onto wheel. If desperate could glue on with weather strip adhesive.put bandsaw blade on both tires spin wheels with power off till blade is running in center of wheel by adjusting top wheel in or out. When done adjust blade guides to blade and bearings to back of blade .This is top and bottom of cutting area
Tires need replaced- may have a few other problems. try this
-unplug the saw spin the saw by hand, does track down the middle of both tires? also look at your guides and backup bearings.
I would take off blade-back off all guides and bearings -clean off any build up on tires- replace blade. now spin wheel ( always spin with the blade going down) if its tracking good go ahead and adjust guides and bearings to specs and try again. most likely the back up bearings are out of adjustment. they should not spin unless you are feeding material and it seems like the bottom one may be your problem.
But never the less it sounds like new tires are needed.
You could try gluing it, but you probably need to replace the tire. On the other hand, if this is a new machine, it has the wrong size tire on it.
Here are two articles on the subject of replacing tires. Their perspectives are a bit different, but they are both excellent. I know you didn't ask about replacing them, but by reading these articles you will get a whole lot more context that should help you.
It's not tracking correctly. I've not worked on one of those little saws since a shop mate had a black & decker model about 15 years ago, but I'm guessing there's a problem with the tires themselves. They are either not seating properly, causing the blade not to ride correctly, or the blade tension is all wrong, (or some combination of the two).
But I have never seen tires get pulled off by a mistracked blade; that alone sends up a big flag for me. There is another post I located with a similar problem with the same saw, so maybe Sears had some issues with some of the tires, but apparantly the forum that hosted it has taken it down, so I can't tell you what her results were.
I'd suggest, since you've gone through all the obvious, that you might get some quality replacement tires for a start, check the bearings on the wheels for play. If that doesn't help, you may have exhausted the capacity of that particular saw. I remember getting that little B&D dialed in occasionally, but it would only work for relatively thin cuts, and eventually we pretty much gave up on it and used it only for installations.
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
There should be a tilt adjustment on the TOP wheel, this is what adjusts the tracking (centering of the blade) on the wheels. Watch the tension adjustment too, not enough will allow the blade to walk off