Question about Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen Range

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Circuit blows and when we get it back on the fault code says H3

We have a maytag gemini electric smoothtop double oven range precision touch 750 series and it is sporadic with blowing fuses and sometimes it takes a few tries to reset the fuses. When it comes back on it reads H3 at the top and then the clock flashes 12:00. I usually have one oven on and a couple of burners when it happens. However tonight it was blowing the fuse with only one burner on (after it blew it with oven and other burners on). Help! It is sporadic but is getting worse. An electrician said our circuit was OK.

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  • Anonymous Feb 17, 2009

    Hi, I have an Ariston electric oven (4yrs old). Since day one we have had this problem and now fed up (no one seems to have an answer). 9 times out of 10, once oven has heated up and when we have finished cooking, we turn the oven off (with control dials at the front of the oven) and it trips the fusebox (and all the lights/sockets/appliances in the house go off). Only the section of the circuit breaker which is connected to the oven is affected. Oven repair man checked and found no problem with the oven. Electrician found no problem with the electrics and is completely confused by the situation. Has anyone had this problem before?

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Hello rcgrecco,
I will try to assist you but will be making some assumptions based on your problem description. First off, when you say it takes a few tries torest the fuses.. are you referring to circuit breakers? or changing out fuses a few time until it begins to work ok? In either case, the fact that it is drawing more current than the service ( fused or circuit breaker protected implies that you have one of two problems, 1. undersized service ( meaning the fuse of circuit breaker which protect the circuit is under-sized) or 2. a short internal to the stove or receptacle that supplies power to that stove.
I would approach a solution in this manner. Remove or disable power to the stove then open the wall receptacle and ( with power verified and off) tighten all wire junctions.. I have seen cases where a loose wire termination becomes resistive and then in order to meet power demand at the burner, more current is drawn which in turn causes the breaker or fuse to trip..) I would also check the terminations at the point of entry for the power cord at the stove. Make sure all the wire terminations are tight. Once you've done that, try turning on one burner at a time and see if the service remains on or trips the protector ( fuse/breaker) I wouldn't use the oven until I verified that each burner works OK.. then try the oven by itself.. and add a burner .. then two.. ( the point being is to try to determine if you have one of the heating elements shorting. 12:00 flashing is the default time setting after power is lost and restarted. I am almost 'questioning your electricians findings" since circuits do not trip unless there is a fault ( too much current being drawn or the service is under-sized for that oven) or... the circuit protection in and of itself is failing due to marginal components. The fact that it is getting worse suggests that whatever was shorting is shorting more frequently.. perhaps a heating element is shorting after it gets hot.. they are typically resistive elements and it is possible for a short to develop between the core material and the protective jacket.. I hope that helps you... or at least provides a few ideas on where to look...
Regards,
Rick

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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