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Dryer air not hot

I unplugged my dryer to save on energy becuase i was going away & when I plugged it back in, the air is no longer hot in any cycle. Is there a flame that needs to be restarted?

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  • tinseltradin Feb 15, 2009

    I made a mistake ..it is a whirpool model LGR4634EQ2 & it is gas.

    Coincidence then that it worked before I unplugged it?

    Thanks

  • tinseltradin Feb 15, 2009

    The dryer works...just that the air doesn't get hot

  • tinseltradin Feb 15, 2009

    The vent outside has air coming out....vent clear of lint...hose has not collapsed

  • tinseltradin Feb 15, 2009

    What kind of electrical troubleshooting



    Air is coming out ,but i won't clarify it as a hard blast

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Chances are, the problem is electrical, and if you can do electrical troubleshooting, we can help you determine which part has failed.

    As for the blast of air, any air restrictions will limit the gas valve's ability to come on for any period of time. This is a built in safety aspect of both gas and electric dryers.

    If you can judge the amount of air pressure discharging the dryer at the point that the air connects, and compare that to when it discharges the house, it will tell you if there is a blockage, which can happen after a dryer is turned on after sitting idle for a few weeks.
    You might also look up inside the dryer where you will see some louver vent panels at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions. Those need to be clear as well.


  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    The air coming out should be a hard blast of air, not just some air.

    Are you capable of doing electrical troubleshooting?


  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Yes, probably a coincidence

    Are you capable of doing electrical troubleshooting?

    Have you checked that where the dryer vent is located outside, that you can feel a hard blast of air exciting the vent? If not, is the vent clear of collected lint, that the hose connecting the duct to the wall is not collapsed.


  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Is this a gas dryer?

    Please reply the model number of dryer and we can help you further.

    But nothing was caused by the unit being unplugged, and, no significant energy is consumed by a non-operating dryer.

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Since you unpluged the first thing I would check is the breaker box to see if it through one side of of the double breaker,I have seen people use 2 single breakers instead of a double !

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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Model gtdp180ed2ww. What causes it to stop mid-cycle?


Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour:
Bad motor windings


IS IT GAS OR ELECTRIC?

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q
GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE




Dryer Overheats and or Dryer Gets too Hot

Apr 22, 2016 | GE Dryers

Tip

D.I.Y. TIP: Dryer runs through cycles, but not heating up?


This is usually a repairman problem, because it's technical... and dangerous (electricution hazard). As you read through, you'll see that I've removed that hazard... IF you pay attention and follow my steps.

Think SAFETY FIRST. Don't rush. Your dryer doesn't care that you treat it nice... it can shock you! Read through the entire text before you start, so there'll be no "did I miss something?" during the repair. Now, let's do it.

Here's something you can check on your own... BE CAREFUL!

This is the usual suspect on ANY electric dryer that runs, but has stopped heating up.

Tools needed: screwdriver or 1/4" socket/wrench (typically) and black electrical tape (not needed, persay.. but a good idea)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1. unplug the dryer, remove air vent. Is it squashed nearly flat? Get a new one later.. when you're going for parts. Make sure that kids or animals cannot get in the way... be responsible, you'll thank me later!

2. remove back plate (12 to 20 small 1/4" screws, around the edge)
(remember, all exposed metal edges will be SHARP... vent, wire ends, etc.)

3. find schematic diagram (paper folded up & stored in back)

4. locate THERMAL RESISTOR (typically, there are 2) on that paper, take notice of wire colors on each end of it. (the diagram states wire colors, so it's easier to physically find them inside)
<there are typically 2 kinds of thermals: One is light grey to black, looks like a small clay brick.. about 1" or so in length. The other is about the size of 3 or 4 nickels stacked up with a black plastic looking top.. and has 2 connectors sticking straight up.>
locate the thermal resister(s) now. (typically, there's one on the vent and one on the drum... the HOT spots)

4a. If by chance you have an ohmmeter (volt meter, measuring ohms for circuit continuity [broken/good]), and know how to use it, take a reading across the resistor. Needle doesn't move? Remove the part, (to match it up at store) go buy it, and install. Check them all.. save an extra trip. No need to go any further. Reverse steps 2 & 1, and wrap it up. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A METER.. proceed to the next step.

5. take the 2 wires off only 1 resistor ONLY and join them together firmly (slide the 'metal loop' ends together), be sure they're away from any metal (shock hazard). you've just learned to by-pass a possible bad circuit. (extra precaution - cover with black tape, if you have it, to eliminate shock hazard)

6. now... your new connection is hanging in mid-air. plug in the dryer, choose a HOT cycle, & start it up. wait 5 seconds, open the door. Is it hot? *now is a good time to reset the control knob (or whatever you have) to OFF, and close the dryer door.

YES - unplug the dryer, remove the Thermal Resistor, go buy a new one..(take it with you, to match). Install the new one, re-attach wires, plug it in, and test it to make sure it works! It ran and got hot? Good. Turn it off and unplug it (safety first). Now put the back on, attach the vent, plug it back in, and use!

NO - unplug the dryer, put the wires back on that resistor.. find the next one... repeat steps 5 & 6 as needed.
- - - - -
If one-at-a-time didn't work, by-pass every one (usually 2).. being safe that nothing is touching anything else. repeat step 6.

At this time, hopefully it's working, and you're off to the store. Did you remember to unplug and shut off the dryer?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
FYI: the wires on the resistors are interchangable.. doesn't matter which one on what end... as long as they are the same two you took off that part in the first place.

If still nothing, put all the wires back. Call a pro.

BEFORE THE BACK GETS PUT ON:
In any case, while the back is off.. clean out the fuzzies. Lint collects everywhere... usually why thermals overheat & quit... and can cause fires. Not a bad idea to clear the duct(s) with a vacuum hose, it will remove what you can't reach... and watch whipping it around in back of the unit.. it can cause pulled wires and bent (or broken) connectors!

Good luck.

on Feb 05, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore elite electric dryer runs but then gets hot and then shuts off, replaced thermal fuse, dryer vent and tubing not plugged, dryer runs gets hot blows thermal fuse again.


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q
GOD IS still GOOD !!!!

Apr 28, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer cuts off soon


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q




Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Apr 30, 2014 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Daewoo electric dryer is stuck on "cooling"


-You mean it's working but Only cold air...?
-If so. Possibly the heater element is burn out.

Good Luck

Mai

Oct 11, 2013 | Daewoo DWRWE33WS Front-Load Electric Dryer...

1 Answer

I've a hoover apollo delux dryer still working well 5kg, 19 years old. Would like to know energy rating as giving it away to a friend.


The energy rating for this dryer is 1.5 stars. Of course it depends on the condition of the dryer and how well it has been maintained.
Does the hot air coming out of the front vent smell scorched or burnt? If so, you need to get the back off, clean out all the lint inside there. Then remove the drum, then remove the heater element carrier off the back of the drum. Its the only way you can clean all the lint out from around the heater element. After 19 years, its going to be needing it.
Please don't pass the dryer to your friend without having it properly cleaned out as described. Don't give your friend a fire hazard. Dryers cause house fires, don't risk it please.

Aug 18, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Temp in dryer warm, no longer Hot.


Hello,
Here's a few things to check that most people can do on their own. Keep in mind, that if you start taking the unit apart, you need to unplug the unit first. We don't want anyone getting zapped!

1) Obvious things first. If you have a propane gas dryer, make sure you are not out of gas! Go to the tank, lift the lid, look at the % gauge. If it's pointing at 5% or less, you may be empty or about to run out of gas. Order a gas delivery.

2) Another obvious tip. Check your lint filter. It may be so clogged that your dryer can't breathe. Clean it. Using a flashlight, look down into with the filter opening and see if there is a lot of lint still inside. If so, try using a small vacuum attachment and clean out lint. This applies to both gas and electric2_bing.gif dryers.

3) Most gas dryers have either a small access panel in the front or at the very least, a peep hole. Open the panel or pop out the plastic peep hole cover so you can view the igniter. Turn on the dryer and watch for orange glow at the burner. If it does not glow, it will not light the gas burner. You may have a broken igniter and will need to replace it or have a new one installed. If you do it yourself, be sure to unplug the dryer and do not touch the very fragile ceramic piece of the igniter. You can confirm it is broken by locating the broken piece below where it is attached or noting it is missing a piece of ceramic on the igniter.

4) This tip applies to both gas and electric models. Another thing you can do is check for blockage in your vent. Unplug the dryer, and pull the unit out as far as you can to get access to the back of the unit. Be careful not to step on or kink the gasline. Pull the venting off the back of the dryer. There is usually a squeeze clamp holding it on. Clean out lint in dryer and from within the vent tube. Some cheap venting are made of expandable plastic or aluminum and can get squished to the point they restrict air flow. Make sure your vent is not collapsed and doesn't get squished when you push the unit back. Once you have cleaned and reassembled it, plug it in turn on the dryer and watch for ignition. If it lights, go outside to the vent cap and check for lint there and make sure your vent flap opens with the hot air flowing out. Clean and adjust as necessary. If you have a long vent tube like I have on mine, then you should clean it out annually. I use a wind-up toilet snake and crank it around knocking lint loose from the walls of the vent. I can always tell when it needs to be cleaned again, when clothes2_bing.gif no longer get dried in the first cycle. If you are unsure of, or unable to perform this task, then you'll need to hire a repairman.

Anyway, these are just the easy, quick fixes that most homeowners2_bing.gif can perform on their own. If none of these solve the problem, you will need to troubleshoot further or hire a repairman. Hope this helps.

May 22, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a martag dryer that is spinning but there


This is usually a repairman problem, because it's technical... and dangerous (electricution hazard). This is the usual suspect on ANY electric dryer that runs, but has stopped heating up.

Think SAFETY FIRST. Don't rush. Your dryer doesn't care that you treat it nice... it can shock you! Now, let's do it.

Here's something you can check on your own... BE CAREFUL!
1. unplug the dryer, remove air vent.
2. remove back plate (12 to 20 small 1/4" screws)
3. find schematic diagram (paper folded up & stored in back)
4. locate THERMAL RESISTOR (typically, there are 2) on paper, take notice of wire colors on each end of it. (the diagram states wire colors, so you can find them.. the part is typically grey or black, and rectangular in shape.. about 1" or so in length). locate the thernal resister(s) now.
- - typically, there's one on the vent and one on the drum (HOT spots)- -
5. take the 2 wires off only 1 resistor ONLY and join them together firmly (using the 'metal loop' ends), be sure they're away from any metal (shock hazard). you've just learned to by-pass a possible bad circuit.
6. now... your new connection is hanging in mid-air. plug in the dryer, choose a HOT cycle, & start it up. wait 5 seconds, open the door. Is it hot?
YES - unplug the dryer, remove the Thermal Resistor, go buy a new one..(take it with you, to match). Install the new one, re-attach wires, put the back on, attach the vent, plug it in, use!
NO - unplug the dryer, put the wires back on that resistor.. find the next one... repeat steps 5 & 6 as needed.

If one-at-a-time didn't work, by-pass every one.. being safe that nothing's touching anything else. repeat step 6.

At this time, hopefully it's working, and you're off to the store. Did you remember to unplug the dryer?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
FYI: the wires on the resistors are interchangable.. doesn't matter which one on what end... as long as they are the same two you took off that part in the first place.

If still nothing, put all the wires back. call a pro.

In any case, while the back is off.. clean out the fuzzies. Lint collects everywhere... usually why thermals overheat & quit... and can cause fires.

Good luck.

Feb 01, 2010 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I need advice on dryer for my kitchen.


This isn't an add its two different units that I have installed and are both condensation dryers. Which in my opinion is better for your needs and lacking venting.....LG and Miele also have 15 cycle so now the decision is what your needs and Budget. Prices range from 700-1500 but well worth the money. Bosch Axxis Condensation Dryer (model: WTMC8320US) you can machine-dry clothes without venting hot, moist air (or indeed any air at all). The Axxis Condensation Clothes Dryer condenses the moisture in the hot air to water and releases it through the water the need for ducting and a blower motor to help expel hot air. Ventless dryers make installation easy, fast, and very cost effective. And since little heat is lost when the air passes through the condensing chamber, it takes very little energy to raise the temperature back to optimal drying levels, thereby saving you energy. The Bosch Axxis ventless dryer features the unique DUO TRONIC system with 11 auto dry cycles that tailor the drying cycle to your clothing. And Bosch's exclusive DUO TRONIC system combines two moisture and three temperature sensors to automatically deliver precision drying. This machine virtually operates at the touch of a button to prevent over drying and damage to your clothes. With the stacking unit I think this is your best option due to keeping moisture, and later mold problems due too condensation. The Ariston Stackable Condensing Dryer ASL75CXSNA is the perfect choice for any home lacking venting capabilities and is the largest condenser dryer on the market, bringing the convenience of a compact laundry system to any home. Wrinkles are minimized with the innovative Pre and Post CreaseCare feature - periodically tumbling the clothing until you come back to remove it - and the handy Bidirectional Rotation of the stainless steel drying drum. Clothes gone musty from long closet stays can be quickly and easily refreshed with the ASL75CXSNA using the intuitive Air Fluff cycle, and the 12-hour Delay Timer allows for freshly-dried loads at your convenience.Key features include: spacious 16-pound load capacity; 180º reversible full metal door; removable lint filter; included stacking kit; Easy Iron option; and electronic Sensor Controls. The Ariston Stackable Condensing Dryer ASL75CXSNA has the high class, top performance, and compact convenience to be a welcome addition to any energy efficient home.Note: This item pairs with the matching Ariston Stackable Washers. I hope this was helpfull~ Have a good day

Feb 05, 2009 | Bosch Axxis WTA 3510 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

UN-ending Auto dry cycle


This is caused by the dryer vent being blocked and not allowing the moist air to be removed from the dryer. To confirm this. Dry a load of close in a timed dry setting. Set the time on a specific time and then start the dryer. Wait for about 5 min. See if the timer has moved. If it has then the problem is not the timer. It is the exhaust vent being plugged up somewhere. Moisture how the auto dry setting works. The dryer sences moisture and runs longer to dry your clothes. With the dryer exhaust vent blocked, wet moist air is comming back into the dryer and fooling the sensor into believing the close are not dry and runs for a very long time. It is not uncommon for this problem to cause a dryer to never shut off. Your dryer exhaust vent is plugged up with lint somewhere.

Nov 10, 2008 | Dryers

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