This is usually a repairman problem, because it's technical... and dangerous (electricution hazard). As you read through, you'll see that I've removed that hazard... IF you pay attention and follow my steps.
Think SAFETY FIRST. Don't rush. Your dryer doesn't care that you treat it nice... it can shock you! Read through the entire text before you start, so there'll be no "did I miss something?" during the repair. Now, let's do it.
Here's something you can check on your own... BE CAREFUL!
This is the usual suspect on ANY electric dryer that runs, but has stopped heating up.
Tools needed: screwdriver or 1/4" socket/wrench (typically) and black electrical tape (not needed, persay.. but a good idea)
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1. unplug the dryer, remove air vent. Is it squashed nearly flat? Get a new one later.. when you're going for parts. Make sure that kids or animals cannot get in the way... be responsible, you'll thank me later!
2. remove back plate (12 to 20 small 1/4" screws, around the edge)
(remember, all exposed metal edges will be SHARP... vent, wire ends, etc.)
3. find schematic diagram (paper folded up & stored in back)
4. locate THERMAL RESISTOR (typically, there are 2) on that paper, take notice of wire colors on each end of it. (the diagram states wire colors, so it's easier to physically find them inside)
<there are typically 2 kinds of thermals: One is light grey to black, looks like a small clay brick.. about 1" or so in length. The other is about the size of 3 or 4 nickels stacked up with a black plastic looking top.. and has 2 connectors sticking straight up.>
locate the thermal resister(s) now. (typically, there's one on the vent and one on the drum... the HOT spots)
4a. If by chance you have an ohmmeter (volt meter, measuring ohms for circuit continuity [broken/good]), and know how to use it, take a reading across the resistor. Needle doesn't move? Remove the part, (to match it up at store) go buy it, and install. Check them all.. save an extra trip. No need to go any further. Reverse steps 2 & 1, and wrap it up. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A METER.. proceed to the next step.
5. take the 2 wires off only 1 resistor ONLY and join them together firmly (slide the 'metal loop' ends together), be sure they're away from any metal (shock hazard). you've just learned to by-pass a possible bad circuit. (extra precaution - cover with black tape, if you have it, to eliminate shock hazard)
6. now... your new connection
is hanging in mid-air. plug in the dryer, choose a HOT cycle, & start it up. wait 5 seconds, open the door. Is it hot? *now is a good time to reset the control knob (or whatever you have) to OFF, and close the dryer door.
YES - unplug the dryer, remove the Thermal Resistor, go buy a new one..(take it with you, to match). Install the new one, re-attach wires, plug it in, and test it to make sure it works! It ran and got hot? Good. Turn it off and unplug it (safety first). Now put the back on, attach the vent, plug it back in, and use!
NO - unplug the dryer, put the wires back on that resistor.. find the next one... repeat steps 5 & 6 as needed.
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If one-at-a-time didn't work, by-pass every one (usually 2).. being safe that nothing is touching anything else. repeat step 6.
At this time, hopefully it's working, and you're off to the store. Did you remember to unplug and shut off the dryer?
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FYI: the wires on the resistors are interchangable.. doesn't matter which one on what end... as long as they are the same two you took off that part in the first place.
If still nothing, put all the wires back. Call a pro.
BEFORE THE BACK GETS PUT ON:
In any case, while the back is off.. clean out the fuzzies. Lint collects everywhere... usually why thermals overheat & quit... and can cause fires. Not a bad idea to clear the duct(s) with a vacuum hose, it will remove what you can't reach... and watch whipping it around in back of the unit.. it can cause pulled wires and bent (or broken) connectors!