Question about Jensen LXA300 Car Audio Amplifier

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Fli Sub not working

Hi,
I have a Fli Sub 12" 1000W. Power lights on however no sound apart from a very quiet distorted bass line coming through when stereo is on. However, when i disconnect it (I have easy plug/unplug connection for quick removal from the boot), it suddenly booms out momentarily for a second or two, as it drains the last bit of power in the amp. Therefore, I know the feed from the head unit is fine, and that there is power. Im not technically minded, but any ideas what the problem could be? Could it be an earthing problem, and if so, how do i resolve it? Thanks!

Posted by on

  • dac297 Feb 16, 2009

    Hi, thanks for your response - it is an active, self-contained speaker and amp, all in one. I know that it has an overload circuit as a red LED comes on after it is in use a long while (presumably if it gets too hot). The Red LED is not lit, and the normal green power LED is on as normal. As regards the earthing, I can check later when i collect the car from the garage.

    Thanks

  • Jimmy Hall
    Jimmy Hall May 11, 2010

    dac297:

    need more input such as; is this a passive (powered with a separate amp) or an active (self-contained speaker & amp) set-up, how is the amp connected to ground (earth). from what you posted @ 1st glance it appears there is an overload condition. fortunately most sub amps are constructed with short-circuit & overload protection, so the amp is probably OK. we need to verify the connections as it is presently configured.

    peace-out


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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Vulfen
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SOURCE: Jensen LXA400

I have this same amplifier. I have noticed several ways it will "not work" during my ownership of it. I have it connected to a seperate battery to save my alternator, battery, etc as it is a power hungry beast for how low the output wattage is. Test the input voltage to see if you have enough, one way to see this is to check the "jensen" emblem that lights up. If you dont have enough power it will appear dim and only the right side lights up. Also the amplifier will not work if your speakers are "blown" even a little bit. Ive taken speakers that wont work on my lxa400 and connected them to a higher power amp and they will work (although they will sound horrible) If youre smart you will keep the gain under 3/4 on this amp, I see some people have found out the hard way that full gain fries the amplifier circuitry. Not an expert on electronics but it smells somewhat like melting glue or plastic. Ive noticed a lot of people have problems with the RCA jacks as well. There are 8 jacks, in two clusters. The first one is A+B and the second is C+D. Note: You do not NEED Y connectors on this amp! Connect your output rcas from the deck to top left and bottom left jacks of the left cluster. This will give you left and right (a+b) output from the first set of speaker outs. Then connect an rca patch cord from the top right and bottom right jacks of the first cluster and connect the other end to the top left and bottom left of the second cluster. This will give you output from the second set of speaker outs. Remember that this is in 4 channel mode. I dont remember the set ups for 3 channel but two channel I believe is the left deck rca goes to top left of the first cluster and the right deck rca goes to the top left of the second cluster. Then you just wire the speaker outs according to the picture on the amplifier. something like this: _________________________ |(+) - (-) +| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Speaker + goes to (+) and speaker - goes to (-) Also addressing another issue if you want to increase the wattage to your speakers you just use a lower resistance speaker (2ohm instead of 4) I would not recommend using anything over 4 ohms. As for the high level inputs, I dont recommend using them unless you have the plugs that go with them, its a lot easier to wire your deck rears to a line converter (changes straight speaker wire to RCA jacks) or to just buy a new deck with RCA outs. Last item, common knowledge: 400 watts does NOT mean 400 watts!!! This amplifier puts out very little actual wattage (50 or 83 per channel depending on the load) Hope all this helps someone out there.. Anyone who knows the 3 channel setups I would appreciate it.

Posted on Jul 15, 2007

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Shuttle83
  • 1139 Answers

SOURCE: Amp Stopped working.

I would suggest checking the unit for cold solder joints or bad solder joints. The onlt hope after that is a bad component. You will need a schematic and multimeter to do this with. Open the unit and measuer the main rail voltage this will provide the data you need to troubleshoot the unit with the use of the schematic.

Posted on Sep 16, 2007

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: Distorted Bass

Check the specs on the required ohms for the speakers. If it calls for 8 ohms and your speaker is 4, then you are pulling twice the normal current and this has blown an output transistor.

Posted on Mar 02, 2008

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SOURCE: whenever i wire 2 4 ohm svc subs the system just starts to pound real hard and its not like bass moving to music but just bass just moving up and down

It sounds like you have an open shield ground. To check the shield in your head unit, read through the following page.

Temporary Shield Ground Repair

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

etirbynnor
  • 655 Answers

SOURCE: PINs for high level input

Hello gmb_66,

You did not specify exactly which Jensen amp you have. None of the Jensen PowerPlus series I found had high-level inputs. You can go here and select your amp to download the manual. They should also have the connector for speaker inputs.

Most amps that have both high-level and RCA inputs allow you to use one or the other, but not both at the same time. If your head unit has RCA ourputs, those would be the ones to use, because they generally provide a cleaner signal to the amp with less noise.

Hope this helps.


Posted on May 24, 2009

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