Question about Whirlpool LEQ9030P Dryer

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I hane a whirlol dryer no heat but ot haeting element

Need pitures of all other compents and the om meter readings. My husbad says the four prong element by the thermaste is what he thinks is wrong

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  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    You can usually find exploded views of the components at SearsPartsDirect.com, and sometimes a wiring diagram/schematic.

    But there should also be a wiring diagram/schematic on the unit somewhere, either inside the back service panel or inside the control head.

    As for resistance readings, they are not given in anything that I have ever found. What you describe sounds like a temperature switch, and it would either be open or closed.

    Replay back if you have any other questions and we can help you further.


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Go to the link below or sears.com and it will have the diagram. There should also be a tech sheet "hid" in there somewhere maybe behind the controls on that one. Almost all the sensors should read a dead short. Especially if they have a heavy wire or red going to them. Usually it's a thermal fuse but there are probably 3 of them on there. There is a skinny long one that goes out a lot. Usually in front under the lint trap.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=LEQ9030PQ0&productCategoryId=0151200&brandId=1198&modelName=RESIDENTIAL-DRYER&diagramPageId=00003&componentDescription=BULKHEAD%20PARTS&documentId=W0405073&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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Not heating, no fault codes, everything seems normal. Checked heat exchanger ok, flow switches ok, thermal reset ok just no power to the ceramic heating elements please help me ;-(


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

Apr 28, 2015 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer is spinning but not heating. we cleaned vents, unplugged dryer and replugged in. now it still won't heat and an hourglass symbol has appeared on control panel


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Apr 11, 2015 | Samsung DV419AE Dryer

1 Answer

When this unit runs it doesn't get very warm. I checked the elements they are good. I read 211 volts on each of the 6 elements, and 22 volts on the control side??


did u check the element for continuity?

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

Mar 30, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Why is my dryer running, but not heating up or drying the clothes?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Jun 23, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Change a four prong cord to three prong cord, dryer heats, turns but does not dry, vents have been cleaned


test this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2ab3IwDXf
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 31, 2013 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No dryer heat


If the coils are bad the unit will light with flame for 4 - 8 times then all of a sudden the ignitor will glow, kick off with no gas coming threw valve. it sounds like the high limit thermostat is short cycling the flame. This is the thermostat that sits on top of the burner chamber. remove 1 screw from the thermostat and blend it upwards away from the heat. Then plug unit back in and test to see if the flame stays on longer. Click here to see maytag dryer no heat posts. Contact me anytime here. Hope this helps..

May 20, 2013 | Maytag Neptune MDG6700A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The heating element is not working. i put a meter on both wires at the element and it was reading 220 volts. is my problem the element or the cut off switch or thermostat? ...


you want to use om meter not volt meter with out power remove the plug. at the element until the reading is ten you should see the number 10, but i think the element is bad and you should change it.

Sep 19, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but wont heat


There are 2 possibilities for this problem.
1. The limit switch is out. The limit switch is located on the heating element on the back of the dryer. This is a small button type part. it will have 2 prongs on it for 2 wires that slide on for power.
2. The heating element is out. This will be on the back of the dryer and depending the model it should be a long metal piece that has metal elements inside of it to heat the dryer. or it could be a large round unit. these can be tested with an om meter.

The limit switch will be the cheapest to start with on replacing.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to ask. I will need the make, model, and the serial number of the unit to help you further. the model and serial number can be found by opening the dryer door and looking by the hings. there should be a sticker with this information on it.

Apr 13, 2010 | Kenmore 64852 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How to determine if a heating element in a dryer is bad?


With the power off, touch the two meter leads to either side of the element on the ohms scale, lowest setting (R x 1) or if digital 0-600 ohms. If element is goo, it should read around 12 -15 ohms depending on the wattage rating. If you wiggle it and you get a reading , it's damaged and needs to be replaced. It's broken in two and just touching.

Aug 01, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Electric Dryer does not get hot


Do you have a voltage meter read from the new plug you put on from the wire on the right to the wire on the far left you should read around 220 from each one to the middle one you should get 110. If you are only getting 110 the dryer will run but not heat it takes 220 to heat the element if you do not get 220 flip your breaker off then on to reset it and test again good luck

Mar 31, 2009 | Dryers

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