Here are the Danbyinstructions: INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGEDRYER BELT DCD5505W-1, REMOVE THE SCREWS ACROSS THE BOTTOM OF THE FRONT THAT GO FROM BOTTOM UP.REMOVETHE TOP BY REMOVING THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING IT DOWN FROM BEHIND, PULL BACK ANDLIFT OFF. REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS ON EACH SIDE THAT GO FROM INSIDE FORWARD THATHOLD THE PLASTIC FRONT ON AND REMOVE THE PLASTIC FRONT. REMOVE THE FRONT SCREWFROM THE CENTER BRACE BAR RUNNING FRONT TO BACK ACROSS THE TOP. REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS ON EACHSIDE AT THE TOP THAT WERE REVEALED WHEN THE PLASTIC FRONT WAS REMOVED. REMOVE THE 6 SCREWSAROUND THE FACE JUST INSIDE THE DOOR THEN SWING THE FRONT OUT RIGHT TO LEFT. REMOVETHE 2 SCREWS ON EACH SIDE OF THE INNER BULKHEAD PANEL AND REMOVE THE PANEL. AT THIS POINT YOU CAN REPLACE THEBELT, IDLER, ANDMOTORMOUNTS.THE 1 EXTRA STEP THE REPLACING THE MOTOR IS TO REMOVE THE BACK AND THEBLOWER COVER THEN UNTHREAD THE BLOWERWHEELFROM THE MOTOR SHAFT.
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You did not say what make your Dryer was so I gave you the basic
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor. If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor or belt and if you have a front loading machine: Note: This method works for most front loading machines. Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections. Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing. Then remove the top of the dryer. Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly. Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum. Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn. While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Hi Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.
Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--
If the machine will spin but not agitate, then the transmission needs to be checked. You should probably get an estimate from an appliance tech to see if it is better to replace the part or the machine.
Hi There, If your washer does not spin there might be two conditions: It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is
running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley
or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and
try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or
stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace
it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the
washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside
the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise
or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's
defective, you need to replace it. It pumps, but doesn't
spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door
frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine
to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers
use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and
is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on
the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace
it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from
the manufacturer. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the
problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. If the problem
lies here Call a qualified appliance repair technician. If none of these work then Do get back to us for any further assistance........
I FOUND A BELT POPPED OFF OF A MODEL LIKE YOURS ONE TIME. TAKE THE BACK PANNEL OFF AND SEE IF YOUR BELT FELL OFF. UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE FIRST! AND IF YOUR BELT IS OFF CHECK YOUR PULLY IT MAY BE LOOSE IF SO REPLACE IT AND YOUR BELT.