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Testing the ignitor

How do you test the ceramic ignitor? I see a lot of people say you can use an ohm meter but I do not believe it is possible to test it that way. Is there a difinitive way to be sure if the ignitor is good or not? I am getting 120v. to the ignitor but no glow/heat.

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Well you can indeed test a ceramic ignitor with an ohm meter. I ended up buying a new one and checked it with my meter.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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Hi I have a Westinghouse 614 fridge/freezer compressor is not working and l found that starter relay was faulty changed it but still no go. there are two wires one blue and one white l believe blue was...


I believe the actual colors should be re for run windings and white for start capcitor and green or brown or black for ground.

AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity




Mar 02, 2015 | Westinghouse Refrigerators

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Sharp carousal convection smart+easy does it have a fuse just died


First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
use the VOM, God bless you

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Apr 01, 2013 | Sharp R1880LSRT Over-the-Range Microwave...

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How can you tell a ceramic fuse is bown


It is tested like any other fuse(white coating is inside so cannot see) with a meter--like checking a fuse in a car or other equipment---- A multimeter which has resistance check (ohm meter setting) will test it instantly.

May 21, 2012 | LG Televison & Video

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How do I test a compressor (aircon) with a multimeter tester to see if its down to earth. Thanks


'down to earth?' Are you asking how do you check a compressor 'to see if it's grounded?'

I believe that is what you're asking.

In which case you need to have an 'ohm meter' - and merely disconnect the compressor wires (always be sure to TURN OFF THE POWER before testing with an ohm meter) - and then put one lead (of ohm meter) to one of the compressor terminals and the other lead to ground, i.e. copper line, metal conduit, etc etc. You can test all three of the compressor terminals this way and if you get a reading on the ohm meter you know you have a grounded/shorted compressor, and it needs replacing.

Jun 17, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a kenmore 70 series gas dryer that stopped heating


Good day,
There are a lot of items that can cause a no heat condition on a gas dryer. Best to follow a step by step testing procedure to isolate the issue.

Here are items to check. You will need an ohm meter to perform some of these tests.
1. Make sure the gas is turned on to the appliance.
2. Remove the back cover of the dryer. In the center bottom is a small skinny white ceramic device, held on with one screw.
Remove one of the wires, and check it with an ohm meter. It should show zero ohms of resistance. If not, it is defective, and needs replaced. This device on your brand causes 80 to 90% of all no heat problems.
3. As well, there are 3 or 4 other thermostats in the area, either round or rectangular, with 2 wires going to them. Check all of them if needed. They should all check zero ohms.
4. To check the igniter, you will have to remove the front panel. A tutorial follows, on how to do that.
Locate the gas valve, on the left side. Follow it forward, you will see the 2 wires on a plug, and at the tip of the burner tube, the igniter itself. Unplug, and check the igniter leads. It should read about 20 to 30 ohms. if not, it has burned out and needs replaced.
5. On the gas valve itself, are 2 black coils, held on with a 2 screw bracket. They can fail, but cannot be tested with a meter. If they are bad, the heating system will light the igniter, and shut down without firing the gas. All components must be in place to perform this test.
That covers 99.5% of all issues. There are others, such as the timer, heat selector switch, centrifugal switch in the main motor, but are extremely rare.
The tutorial below is not about heat trouble shooting, but is supplied to show how to gain access to the front of the machine.
http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-a-Dryer-Belt-on-Whirlpool-Models

This is what the thermal fuse looks like. Common failure item, along with the ignitor.

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Apr 28, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs/tumbles, gas won't light off.


Good day,
Follow a step by step procedure. It's the easiest way. The most common problem items are here. Thermal fuse and ignitor. The gas valve coils are fairly common as well. Kenmore's are built by Whirlpool.


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Here are items to check. You will need an ohm meter to perform some of these tests.
1. Make sure the gas is turned on to the appliance.
2. Remove the back cover of the dryer. In the center bottom is a small skinny white ceramic device, held on with one screw.
Remove one of the wires, and check it with an ohm meter. It should show zero ohms of resistance. If not, it is defective, and needs replaced. This device on your brand causes 80 to 90% of all no heat problems.
3. As well, there are 3 or 4 other thermostats in the area, either round or rectangular, with 2 wires going to them. Check all of them if needed. They should all check zero ohms.
4. To check the igniter, you will have to remove the front panel. A tutorial follows, on how to do that.
Locate the gas valve, on the left side. Follow it forward, you will see the 2 wires on a plug, and at the tip of the burner tube, the igniter itself. Unplug, and check the igniter leads. It should read about 20 to 30 ohms. if not, it has burned out and needs replaced.
5. On the gas valve itself, are 2 black coils, held on with a 2 screw bracket. They can fail, but cannot be tested with a meter. If they are bad, the heating system will light the igniter, and shut down without firing the gas. All components must be in place to perform this test.
That covers 99.5% of all issues. There are others, such as the timer, heat selector switch, centrifugal switch in the main motor, but are extremely rare.
The tutorial below is not about heat trouble shooting, but is supplied to show how to gain access to the front of the machine.
http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-a-Dryer-Belt-on-Whirlpool-Models

Apr 11, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

The dryer will not get hot. We replaced the


Good day,
If one of the terminals from the flame sensor fell off and touched any part of the cabinet or other metal parts, it's possible it could have shorted out any component in the heating system, all the way back to the timer.
However, if not then a step by step procedure should get you there.

Here are items to check. You will need an ohm meter to perform some of these tests.
1. Make sure the gas is turned on to the appliance.
2. Remove the back cover of the dryer. In the center bottom is a small skinny white ceramic device, held on with one screw.
Remove one of the wires, and check it with an ohm meter. It should show zero ohms of resistance. If not, it is defective, and needs replaced. This device on your brand causes 80 to 90% of all no heat problems.
3. As well, there are 3 or 4 other thermostats in the area, either round or rectangular, with 2 wires going to them. Check all of them if needed. They should all check zero ohms.
4. To check the igniter, you will have to remove the front panel.
Locate the gas valve, on the left side. Follow it forward, you will see the 2 wires on a plug, and at the tip of the burner tube, the igniter itself. Unplug, and check the igniter leads. It should read about 20 to 30 ohms. if not, it has burned out and needs replaced.
5. On the gas valve itself, are 2 black coils, held on with a 2 screw bracket. They can fail, but cannot be tested with a meter. If they are bad, the heating system will light the igniter, and shut down without firing the gas. All components must be in place to perform this test.
That covers 99.5% of all issues. There are others, such as the timer, heat selector switch, centrifugal switch in the main motor, but are extremely rare.
P.S. If the lead from the sensor fell, and shorted to the machine, as I said, the the gas coils may be totally destroyed and would not allow the ignitor to heat.

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1 Answer

Oven will not heat up. No gas smell


There is a ignitor that has to glow and draw around 3 to 3.5 amps for the gas valve to open. It is ceramic, breaks very easily when handled, and is found at the burner, also it serves as the safety for the gas valve. Most likely it is burnt out, you can take it to a appliance store and have it ohmed out with a meter to test it, A technician that came to your house would do this or test for 120 volts at the ignitor with the oven turned on. Not saying this is your problem, but it is most common repair, and easiest place to start,

good luck

Mar 05, 2010 | Amana Kitchen Ranges

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Drum turns but does not heat the air. I replaced the ignitor, but no help there. Whirlpool gas dryer model 63003W0


If the ignitor glows but does not light the burner you need to replace the gas valve coils.
If there is no glow you must check all the thermostat safeties and thermal cutout fuses for continuity with a ohm meter. No continuity is a bad component. Remove at least one wire from each component before testing.
Unplug the dryer before any test.

Feb 17, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

WHIRLPOOL DRYER 5-6 YRS OLD


Navy 2nd Class Diver 1969-73

The Ignitor is fine? So, it heats on some settings and not others?

The OHM Meter test for continuity.
Some parts give a reading of a certain amount of OHM's but, most the time all you need to know is if you get any reading on the meter at all. This shows there is no break inside the part. You can check the ignitor this way also the solenoids on the gas valve.

If the ignitor glows red then shuts off and does not ignite the gas, this could be the sensor or the solenoids. The sensor located close to the ignitor, will detect the glow from the ignitor and send power to the solenoids on the gas valve.

Jan 26, 2009 | Dryers

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