My daughter is away at college and dropped a hot plate on her cooktop, breaking the cooktop. I'm hoping to replace the cooktop for her in a couple of weeks when we next visit, but I need to make sure I can handle the job (which is complicated by the fact that I can't look at the job ahead of time).
First question: She swears the model number is JBP65SOK4SS, but GE doesn't seem to have that model number. The closest I can find on GE's site is JBP65SK4SS. Does anyone know if these models share the same cooktop?
Second question: Assuming the correct part number is WB62T10282, how hard is it to replace the cooktop? I've read http://www.fixya.com/support/r391448-replacing_glass_cook_top, but I'd be curious if anyone has more specific information for this model.
Third question: Are there any repair manuals for these ovens? The users manuals aren't very much help.
Thanks (from me and my daughter)!
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Re: How to replace GE JBP65 cooktop?
If you can verify the model number (hers didn't, yours did check out) this might be the place to go:
Sears Parts Direct
Sears carries a huge line of parts for many manufacturers which are sometimes available from a storefront in your area or on line.
On your model number, there is unfortunately no complete parts illustration (line drawing) which they often have available and with a bit of thought, those give you enough insight to the construction to see what has to be done for a repair.
With the part number, I recommend you call Johnstone Supply if you have one in your area.
They often have OEM parts at 1/2 to 2/3 anyone elses price.
Typical savings; a washing machine pump that the dealer wanted ~$22 for, I bought from Johnstone for almost exactly half; ~$11.
They are 'wholesale' but I have never been turned away.
For our appliances that have been available, I have copied (yeah, well, OK, stolen) them and have them on hand locally.
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The cooktop will likely be "hard wired" in place. If its an old cooktop, the replacement model may be a different size. I would suggest you measure what the opening or cutout size is of the benchtop and check with a retailer to see if the new unit will fit or if the benchtop has to be modified to accept the size of the new unit.
Some cooktops also have small clips to hold it down which can be unscrewed from underneath the benchtop.
If you are referring to the bakelight material, this is an insulating compound and the burner still may work. I would not use this long term in this manner however. This material insulates as well as helping maintain an even heat transfer of the burner. Long term use, may cause damage to the cooktop. The burners are replaceable, but the prices vary depending on the size of the burner. The part numbers are as follows:
Individual burners, located directly under the cooktop glass, contain a temp sensor which lights up the hot surface lamp when they sense a hot condition. If the light stays on after all burners are cool, one of the sensors has shorted out. The sensors are an integral part of the burner, so the offending burner must be replaced to solve your constant on hot light.
IS THIS A DIGITAL RANGE,IF SO REMOVE THE TOP BACK COVER AND SEE IF ANYTHING ARCED(BURNED SPOTS) ON THE CONTROL BOARD,IF NOT DIGITAL, YOUR OVEN KNOB SWITCH IS STUCK IN CLEAN MODE,I HOPE IT'S NOT THE CONTROL BOARD AS THEY RUN ABOUT $200 ,LET ME KNOW-MIKE
Cast iron is not recommended due to the weight and its heat retention. Cast iron stays hot longer and, due to the weight, can damage the cooktop surface by scratching or cracking it. In your owner/operator manual there should be a section that defines what type of cookware that can be used. Aluminum and Copper heat rapidly, but can leave metal transfer marks. Stainless takes longer to heat and doesn't always heat evenly. Baked enamel, I believe, is the recommended cookware, because it is light weight, heats evenly and has a less risk of damaging the cooktop.
NOTE: References to any remarks about metal transfer marks made by cookware are DISCLAIMERS letting the consumer know that the POTENTIAL of marking the cooktop surface exists. This is NOT to imply that the cookware should not be used. There should be clear instructions that state how to remove the marks (if it occurs), what recommended cleaners are to be used and how to properly keep the cooktop surface clean. Spillage from milk or sugar substances can cause more damage than metal transfer marks.
Another item to note is the cookware bottom should be smooth and flat. If you sit a pan on the range surface and it does not sit evenly, you can potentially crack the cooktop surface due to uneven heating.
A warranty in most cases does not cover damage or breakage of the cooktop caused by the consumer using improper cookware or dropping something on it and breaking the surface.
Not trying to give you a lecture here, just trying to give you some advice just in case you weren't aware. I hope you find this information helpful.