Gas log fire place with sit630 control valve #0630545 will not go up past low heat and shuts off after a short time,Flame will not go higher even on highest setting

They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit.
LED CODE
EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST
DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY
THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES.
STATUS

11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72
hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power
(115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted.
12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90
seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens
during blower on-delay.
13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is
open longer than 3 minutes.
- Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33.
14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.
21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset.
Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay)
22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is
de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for:
- Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve
23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for:
- Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed.
24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for:
- Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring.
31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than
five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for:
- Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor
- Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch
- Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent
- Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing
- Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used)
If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected
blower off-delay.
33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will
run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open
longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes
status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch
requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent
- Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind
- Dirty filter or restricted duct system.
- Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections.
- Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open).
34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout
#14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come
on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity
- Flame sensor must not be grounded
- Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool).
- Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal).
- Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off
- Defective Hot Surface Ignitor
- Low inlet gas pressure
- Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition
- Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal
45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to;
- Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure
- Software check error
Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats.
If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display
stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiatingstatus code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.

here is a link copy and paste

https://www.fixya.com/support/t6287232-carrier_8000ts


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Question edited for clarity.

This says yes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=eurosit+630+gas+valve+replacement

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Obvious that the unit isn't getting gas to the ignitor.
To receive gas to the ignitor, there is a gas valve located upstream of the burners.
Have a friend turn on the heat while you are up close to the furnace.
Once the ignitor gets hot, there will be an audible "click" at the gas valve when the low voltage controls call for the gas valve to open to supply gas to the burners.
Listen for it.
If you hear a click, and the furnace still isn't firing, you need to check to see if someone has closed the gas shut off supply valves located on the gas line.
If all the shut off valves are open, you need to verify you have gas pressure in front of the gas regulator.
If you verify have pressure on the upstream side of the regulator, you will need to verify there is also pressure downstream of the regulator.
If there is gas pressure upstream but none downstream, replace the regulator.
If you have pressure downstream of the regulator, and the gas valve clicks, but furnace doesn't light, replace the gas valve.
LP has higher pressure than natural gas, and is dangerous.
LP is heavier than air and will sink to the floor or lowest area.
One static electricity spark is all it takes and an explosion can occur.

If you have to tap the gas valve one or more of the diaphragms/springs in it are sticking, which would account for no difference between low and high.

flame sensor will be were flame can hit sensor. usually only has 1 wire. look were burners are and flame comes out. its a small metal rod. usually you can use sand paper and clean them off (even if they look ok) and they are fine. does system fire up for a few seconds and then gas shuts off? if so flame sensor is problem.

Their is 2 coil hosing but one of them has 3 wires and 2 coils inside it. The ignitor does 2 jobs, it lights the fire and acts as a thermocouple through the holding coil. If the flame does not ignite after the sensor detects the heat from it and shuts down then once the ignitor cools down the gas valve is shut down even if power is going to the gas valve. When the temp drops below 105f in the drum the control closes contacts inside allowing power to be supplied to the gas assembly. The ignitor and flame sensor along with the booster holding and secondary coils are all energized at once but the solenoids won't open the valve because the ignitor is hogging the power. The power supplied to it runs through the flame sensor. When the temp inside the sensor reaches a point the bi-metal inside tripped the power to the ignitor and the power gets diverted over to the secondary coil. Thr flame stays on till the temp inside the drum reaches 160f at which time the control thermostat opens circuit to the gas assembly and power is shut down. The drum continues to tumble and when the temp drops once agin below 105 the process is repeated and another blast of heat is shot into the dryer. So what goes wrong? Faulty flame sensor sticking/open, cracked ignitor, old coils that work intermittently or not at all when hot but work again when cooled. More here.

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If the flame sensor is not returning a good signal, the gas valve is shut off as a safety measure. I surmise that in this situation, the igniter is programmed to fire for a time to flare off any accumulated gas from the initial attempt to fire up the burner.

Check for the following: adequate combustion air supply (make sure inlet vents are clear), proper exhaust venting, flame sensor properly positioned and not cracked or otherwise broken, burner holes are clean and not caked over with combustion deposits (if the flame is uneven and weak right where the flame sensor is located, it will be treated as a failed ignition).

In the worst case, the gas valve is defective and unable to detect the flame signal. It's also possible that a thermostat is sending an overheat signal, but that doesn't account for the igniter sparking a second time after the burner shuts off.

Generally, whether it's a Vent-free or Vented fireplace, lower than normal flame height is caused by 3 things: Low Gas pressure; The air shutter control valve is clogged or needs adjusting; The burners need cleaning.

I haven't seen a unit in the past 10 years, that has a flame height adjustment, other the flame height control knob, that's part of the control assembly. Have you checked that, to see what height it's turned to low?

Perhaps, if I knew who the manufacturer was and the model number, I could be of more help to you.

The burner will shut off for various reasons.

First, there is a sensor right at the burner flame. If the sensor does not indicate flame the gas is shut off to avoid filling your house with gas. It is usually a short metal rod. Oftentimes cleaning it will get it working again. Or the signal from the sensor isn't getting back to the controller, so check for loose connections.

This page explains it well.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/flamesensor.php

There are some other sensors that will shut the heat down. A temp sensor where the hot air leaves the dryer drum. This is to keep from overheating the clothes and lighting them on fire. If this sensor is bad, or the wiring to it is not getting that signal back to the controller, the dryer will shut the burner down. Although 10-15 seconds is pretty short, this is a possibility. Try different heat settings to see if you get the same result. If it only happens on one heat setting you most likely have a bad temp sensor.

Visit here for more info.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/thermostat.php

Another possibility is that the gas valve (solenoid) is getting near the end of its life and can't stay open long. This is not likely, but still possible since the burner does light.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/gascoil.php

Next possibility is that the gas line is partially plugged. When the burner fires the gas pressure drops rapidly. When the burner goes out the gas sneaking past the obstruction raises the pressure back up.

Final possibility is a bad controller.