Question about Noritz 6.3 Gallon Residential Tankless Water Heater - N-063S
I have a Noritz Tankless Water Heater... it won't turn on. no blinking light. I have power to the unit but still no spark... think maybe there might be debris clogging the unit? need help!
I had the same problem with my Noritz 751M, I called the plumber and after he talked with Noritz and ran a bunch of tests (for $150) he told me I needed a new unit ($4,000 installed). They implied it was my fault cause I never flushed it over 8 years. They were unable to tell me the flow rate though (which should be very low if scale was my main issue). I decided to take over as I am very handy and an engineer. Here is what I found:
1. The unit is 8 years old and was never descaled (orig installer did not install the bypass valves nor tell me to flush annually). So, I installed the valves ($70) and bought a pump/hoses/bucket/Zep CLR ($150) and did the flush. There was tons of flow thru the exchanger (I did not measure how much).
2. I called Noritz myself (they were very helpful) and cleaned up the igniter rod with sandpaper (it was very discolored due to 8 years of sparking). This did the trick and my unit fired up but it was very sporadic (sometimes yes & no). The difficult part is that while the igniter is installed you CANNOT actually see (nor definitively hear) the sparking. It seems like sometimes the spark happens (unit fires right up) and sometimes it doesn't (unit cycles and ends in a Code 11 after a couple of minutes).
3. INFO: Per the field manual (Search google for: docslide.us_noritz-field-manual-2009) you can read the flow rate data from Data #14 on the remote control. It needs to be >0.5 GPM for the sparking to happen which then triggers the gas flow. You can live monitor Data #14 by following the instructions in the field manual on pp.46-47. The startup logic is: Flow > 0.5 GPM then Sparking Happens then the Gas Flows then Flames start in the combustion chamber
4. I got mine to successfully start by loosening the ignitor rod PN 101 and jiggling it while still inserted into the combustion chamber (holding it with insulated pliers while still against the case) - somewhat dangerous and startling when after sparking the gas flows and flaming starts but not too bad.
5. BOTTOMLINE: I got it working but it would not "always" light (even though my flow was always >0.5 GPM). Noritz told me that it is probably because I have the older black ignitor (PN 126 = EHEJ003). They have a new and improved gray ignitor (PN 126 = EMUJ004). I ordered it with a couple of other ignitor parts for a total of $35. I just installed them and they work great - ignition all the time from every faucet.
6. ENDGAME: Order the new ignitor parts, verify your flow rates using the field manual. See the pics below for some insight. I spent 20 hrs troubleshooting and wanted o share. If you want more info just email me at: firstname.lastname@example.org
You can monitor the flow rate and flame by doing a skype (PC at faucet to Phone place in front of Noritz) - you will be able to see the Noritz turning on (with flow rate displayed) each time you turn on a faucet - it is very helpful for troubleshooting and verification
Posted on Feb 05, 2016
There are a few things you'll want to check:
1) make sure you have 120VAC at the outlet
2) measure voltage across the blue/white and black/white wires connected to the gfi (black box inside the unit on the bottom left or right hand side). You should read roughly 100 VAC on both sides. If you don't read voltage on the black/white wire pair, then you gfi is tripped. Look for moisture that might be shorting the gfi.
3) If the GFI checks out ok, you probably have debris clogging your flow sensor
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
Could be thermocupple
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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