When a cycle starts the water flows through the detergent dispenser. Then the tub begins to start its calypso motion. But at the point when the detergent/water mix is supposed to spray into tub it only makes a "whirring" noise and no spray. Possible pump issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: Cycle Starts but Water Doesn't Spray into Tub
It appears your dual inlet water valve has failed in this instance.
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Has the dispenser door open at end of cycle. If dispenser door is open but not fallen down to the tub means most likely the water arm pressure is not good enough to get flush down to the tub.
Door not open means dispenser failure or control board not giving power to dispenser at right time. In some cases dispenser door is stuck with harden earlier soap so it cannot open completely in the cycle.
Why not when opening the door at end of cycle, listen to dispenser area to see the flapper opening while you are opening the door. That means dispenser not opening properly in the cycle.
This issue is a hard solve sometimes. Don't wont to spend the money, then just use the tablets and through them in the tub in the beginning and say good bye to dispenser.
there are 2 components to the soap dispenser, 1 using liquid soap has a little tub that you dispense soap into and 2nd you remove the tub when using powder soap. I assume that you are talking about the little tub is filled with water. How this works is by adding water to the tub the level rises and siphoning empties the little tub. If any water remains it is due to water being added after the little tub has already emptied. That is not a big issue and will happen. Just empty the water or add some water to start the syphon process.
Sounds like your motor is burned out. The drain motor and wash motor are seperate on your machine. You can check for power going to the motor, but to do this you might have to pull the dishwasher out. While the cycle is running check for 120 VAC going into the motor. If you are getting power and nothing is happening, you will need to replace the motor, otherwise you will need to replace the motor control board located at the base of the machine.
Supply water temperature should be above 120 degrees F for effective cleaning. Run hot water from your kitchen sink (your dishwasher should be tapped off the hot water line near your sink faucet) right before you start a dishwashing cycle to make sure it's as hot as it can be when the dishwasher begins filling. Also, during the wash cycle the heating elements at the bottom of the tub may turn on and warm the water further even if you select a "No Heat Dry" option causing a noticeable shot of steam to escape if you open the door during a cycle.
Note: I recently had a problem with our dishwasher (Frigidaire FDB834RFS0) causing dishes to come out dirty and the detergent dispenser to be left with undissolved detergent. Our problem happened to be caused by a partially clogged strainer in the water supply valve. (I would imagine Whirlpool most likely has some kind of filter/strainer in its water valve as well.) When the supply valve was commanded to open for some time, I noticed the water level in the tub would barely be visible below the lower spray arm. After cleaning out the strainer (required removing and disassembling the water supply valve) the water level was noticeably higher -- almost at the bottom of the float or about an inch below the heating elements. Our dishes and the detergent dispenser are now clean.
If your water supply is ok, I would next check to make sure your spray arms do not have any plugged holes and that they rotate freely. Also, use a good quality detergent and a rinse aid. We prefer liquid Cascade and Jet Dry. We have had problems with old, stale, or really thick liquid detergents and by getting a fresh jug have solved the dirty dish dilemma.
Make sure to clean out the filter basket at the bottom of the basin below the lower spray arm occasionally as it can clog and cause the pump to starve due to lack of water. If the pump can't get a supply of water to pump to the spray arms and nozzles, your dishes will not get sprayed evenly and you will end up with them being poorly cleaned.
Hope this helps you out...good luck!
You MUST use "HE" (High Efficiency-Low Suds) type detergent--but to use the correct amount. Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have incorrect instructions.
The correct amount is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Washload
HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
1) Musty Odor
2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle
3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)
4) Insufficient Cleaning Results
5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the front door gasket
6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)
7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)
Most consumers were doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.
Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap. This was a very big *faux pas* on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should never be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount. The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup. This is a very,very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.
After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur. After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up. It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.
Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".
Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.
Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button. Wait for door to lock.
Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.
Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble. After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer. Turn the washer back "on". Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub. This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.
After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.
Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of. If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled. This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall. The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.
Water floods the dispenser compartments at the start of the cycle to dilute/dissolve the softener, bleach, and detergent. The reason why water is in the compartment after the cycle is that, the detergent, the softener, and/or the bleach does not flow into the tub properly. It's either the dispenser assembly is clogged or excessive amount of detergent, softener or bleach is used. Clean the dispenser assembly and make sure to use no more than two tablespoons of powdered HE detergent or one-and-a-half ounces if liquid HE detergent.
Unscrew the two screws on the back of the top plate then pull it back then upward.
Pull out the dispenser drawer.
Unscrew the two screws then push the dispenser assembly out.
Unscrew the nut at the lower part of the dispenser.
Remove the four connectors from the valves.
Unscrew the two screws from the back of the cabinet.
Reinstall the dispenser assembly in reverse order.
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
probable cause is there is an article of clothing that is stuck between the outer and inner tubs, in the area where the dispenser water and detergent enter the machine. you can run your hand around the rubber boot and you might be able to remove the article, it will be in the upper left part of the machine. if nothing can be found than you have a plugged up dispenser hose.