Question about Hotpoint Ultima WF860 Front Load Washer

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Different heat settings

Does the heat button need to be depressed for high heat?

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Does the hotpoint model 9534 have a heating element in it to heat up the water if the temperature of the incoming hot water is not high enough for the set wash? Because when it only has cold water going...

yes it has an element. first thing is to make sure you dont have the "econmy" button selected as if you do this causes the machine to skip the heating stage.

if not its an element you need part number 1601318.

remove the front facia and panel and you will find the element in the front of the drum

Jul 11, 2011 | Washing Machines


Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat

If your electric dryer is spinning around but there is no heat to dry your clothing then this tip is for you.


There are typically three reasons why the electric dryer does not make heat.
  1. the electric heating element has gone bad
  2. the thermal cut-out switch has opened up (activated)
  3. the high-limit thermostat has failed
  4. 110v power only going to the dryer.

Before doing anything make sure that you check for 220v power at the back of the dryer. The motor and the control components can and do run on 110v power. The dryer can start and spin on 110v power but will have no heat symptoms. The electric heating element must have 220v power to make any heat.

None of the three parts are very expensive parts and all of them can be replaced for under a hundred bucks. When ordering parts for your dryer it is best just to order all of them to make sure that you do not have to pull the thing apart soon again just because you failed to replace an old part when you had it apart.

To get to where the heating parts are you will need to remove a panel of the dryer. To determine which panel, check to see where your lint screen is. If your screen is on the top of the dryer then you will access the heating components by removing the back panel.


If your dryer lint screen is in the door of the dryer then you have a bit more difficult time. The access can be obtained by removing the bottom panel in the front. This is held fast by either screws on the bottom or by retaining clips in the seams a couple of inches in from each side of the dryer. A putty knife is a good tool to release the clips with.

Make sure that you unplug the dryer before checking any of the heating components. For information as to where the different components are you can do a search for “appliance parts” and then enter you model number in one of the parts supply web sites. Most of them have “exploded” diagrams of the different machines so you can tell where the parts you are looking for are located. These sites also are where you would order the parts you need. Be sure to check a couple of different ones to be sure you are getting the lowest price. The prices can vary from site to site and no one is always the cheapest.

When checking to see which part is bad you will need an electric meter with a resistance scale. The heating element will give you a reading of 9-13 OHMS if the element is good. The thermal cut-out and the high-limit will each read 0 OHMS if they are good. If you get any readings other than that replace the component.


The heating element is located in the heater box. The high-limit will be mounted to the heater box closest to the element. The thermal cut-out is mounted a bit further away and is a safety just in case the high-limit fails.

As I stated before it is advisable to replace all these parts at once for the best results.

After replacing the parts reinstall all parts and then plug the dryer back in to check the operation. You should now be making heat to dry once again.

on Jan 11, 2010 | Washing Machines

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Washibng machine switches on but nothing happens.

Step 1: Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still won't run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer has one).

Step 2: Make sure the control knob is properly set to the ON position and the door is tightly closed. Check the latch to make sure it's free of lint and soap buildup.

Step 3: Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and that the drain and soap-saver return hoses are properly extended, without kinks. If the washer has a water-saver button, make sure the button is depressed; water may not circulate through the filter nozzle if the basket is not full and the button is not depressed.

Step 4: To make sure the water is the proper temperature, check the temperature selector switches on the control panel to make sure they're properly set. Also check the water heater temperature control. It should be set no lower than 120 degrees F.

Apr 29, 2011 | Bosch WFL 2062 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine will partially fill with water for a minute or so but not run a wash cycle. it does this whether the top is up or down. It the timer is set to a different like heavy duty or perma-press, it...

HI. In most cases, the timer will be the culprit, here. With that said, i recommend to inspect the lid switch for its operational value.

Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch, properly. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your switch may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.

There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch.

Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same type.

  • NOTE_ Your switch/striker location may differ. Some Kenmore model will have the lid switch mechanism located directly behind the actual lid structure.

Mar 22, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

We need to depress the primary start button serveral times before the washer actually starts. We have had it replace two years ago. It seems to be contact issue.

Often key pads when subjected to lots of humidity in a closed laundry room they often stop making contact. Try taking a blow dryer, on medium heat and dry for a few minuets if it starts working then it's susceptible to moisture and indicates the control pad is not sealed.

Sep 21, 2009 | LG WM2277H Front Load Washer

2 Answers

How do you get the dryer to work on the combo

You need to have the half load / dry button depressed PLUS have indicated the number of minutes you want it to run for...

Nov 14, 2008 | Whirlpool AWZ410 Front Load Washer/Dryer

2 Answers

'test' displayed on washing machine

After pressing different buttons and waiting 10 to 15 seconds after turning the power off, I have finally found the solution.
When you have pressed the "Start/Cancel" button to start your wash programme the LCD shows "test".
You must then press the "Start/Cancel" button which will give you the normal temperature and washing time and then importantly you must depress both the "Start/Cancel" button with the "On/Off" button which will give you a different LCD message and then it will automatically resets itself.


Jul 31, 2008 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD640 Front Load...

2 Answers

Extra Spin cycle?

(I know this is an old question, but its probably a common question for new owners - including me a couple of weeks ago...)

Power the unit back on, press the spin speed button and it will select the "drain and spin" cycle. Pressing the spin speed button again will select different spin speeds as well as just "drain".

Something you might try instead of medium spin speed is to turn on "SpinSense". To turn this on (and off), press and hold the "Stain Cycle" button for 3 seconds while any wash program is in process.

What SpinSense does is measure the imbalance by doing a very slow spin before cranking the spin speed up (and measuring how constant the very low spin speed is). If the balance is out too much, it will stop, let the clothes drop, and then try another slow spin. It will try this over and over many times until the balance is decent. Then it will let it rip. It makes a huge difference, but it can spend a lot of time getting a good balance some times.

SpinSense also seems to be able to detect if the machine is shaking terribly, shut the spin down and try again.

Our LG 2688 is on our 1st floor (wooden floor). Without SpinSense, the vibration was terrible and with it, it is tolerable.

For some reason we typically get less vibration with "Extra High" spin speed compared to "High" so that is another option you might try.

May 08, 2008 | LG WM2688H Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer

If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?

If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.

Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.

If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.

Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.

Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.

Jan 15, 2008 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Pre-set buttons

they are activated when pressed in

Dec 19, 2007 | Equator EZ 2512 CEE Front Load Washer /...

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