Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
Freezer/refrigerator cools on and off. When it is not working, the contents of the freezer, especially the ice, will begin to melt. When this happens, you do not hear the motor run. If you increase the termostat, the motor kicks in and it begins to cool down. Then hours (few times) or days (usually) later, the same thing happens again. Is this problem worth fixing or is it more cost effective to get a new one? The manufacturing date on the refrigerator is 2/97.
Can you help me to resolve it. the model #596.52673200 Kenmore made. I replaced the defrost thermostat years ago. It works after that, now it has stopped working. I replaced another defrost thermostat and pull my refrigerator away from the wall, after it works, I push back to the wall where it was, it stopped working.
Finally, I turned the thermostat off for an hours and back on, then it works again with pull it away from the wall. what is it problem?
it will stop again. on and off. can you explain the possibility?
Posted on Aug 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 23, 2009
The defrost mode has failed...replace the defrost element or the timer...it may also be low on gas.I bet its the element....easy and cheap to replace.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
It sounds like you may have a defrost problem such as stuck in defrost mode. Post your model number and I may can find more specifics for you.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Jul 28, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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