Wirlpool gs475lems Oven will fail to light and keep temp.
The preheat works fine, but the oven will try to ignite after to keep correct heat but fails to ignite. Igniter is working but burner will not ignite. It seems that it works better sometimes when I leave the bottom drawer open. Sometimes it will ignite after the second round of the igniter but if it doesn't ignite then I will have to increase the temp setting to get it to light.
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Yes, I think you have the answer. If you have the knowledge, check the electrical supply side, fuse etc. Check out your user manual in the fault finding section. The oven has a thermo switch that prevents the gas opening if theres no ignition.
see the next steps and proceed with common sense: God bless you Main Control / Oven Switch
The main control or oven switch may have failed. You will need to
identify the wires from the switch/control that lead to the igniter that
is clicking. These wires may pass through the spark module and change
colors. Refer to the wiring diagram or tech sheet. If you have power
leaving the switch/ control when in the off position replace the switch
/control. Manual switches can be tested with an ohmeter.
Spark Module / Igniter Module
If your oven igniter keeps clicking the igniter module or spark module
is the likely problem. First be sure the igniter is clean and the
surrounding contact points are clean. Make sure power is off when
cleaning. If the oven keeps clicking after it's cleaned and the oven
switch / control checks good replace the spark module.
The way the oven works is like so: 1) User sets the desired temperature 2) Power is sent to the ignitor 3) The ignitor is then energized, drawing 3.2 amps of current 4) When the 3.2 amps is drawn, the gas safety valve is allowed to open and gas flows into the burner assembly in the oven. 5) This gas is then ignited, causing the oven to heat. 6) As the oven heats up, the oven sensor, which is the metal rod located at the top on the rear oven wall, converts the heat into an electrical signal, relaying this information to the main control which in turns displaying the temperature. (In models with a dial thermostat, there won't be a sensor, though a metal wire with a bulbous end will be present, which is actually connected to the thermostat.)
By the parts diagram, it looks like you have a glow coil type igniter . Generally when the oven wont keep temperature, the igniter is failing to reignite the burner. The burner comes on till it reaches temp then shuts off until the temp falls below a certain temp then comes back on until it reaches temp again and so on and so forth. Most of the time the igniter has a very small crack in it and doesn't begin to fail until it cycles several times. I would check the igniter and the safety valves and coils on the valve
Would be helpful to know brand and model. However, most gas ovens use a glowbar mechanism that regulates the amount of gas released into the oven. The glowbar also ignites the gas (and usually stays on all the time the oven is on). Often, the glowbar fails to heat up sufficiently and, as a result, doesn't allow the oven to release sufficient gas. If this happens, you may also smell small amounts of gas in the kitchen. The glowbar is hot enough to ignite the limited amount of gas being released into the oven. This is probably why the oven heats up but heats up very slowly. It's also possible that the heat being experienced in the oven is being generated from the glowbar itself without any gas being ignited. If this is the case however, it is unlikely that your oven to get very hot at all.
The way to test to see if they glowbar is failing is to test the amperage traveling to the glowbar when the oven is on. You can do this using a "clamp on meter" (purchased at any Home Depot or Lowes). Depending on the particular kind of glowbar you have, it should read above a certain amperage (in my case the reading was 2.7 amps and it should have been between 3.2 and 3.7 amps). I ordered a new glowbar from www.appliancepartspro.com and installed it myself (very easy). It fixed the problem. Here is a link that explains it pretty well (http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_range_ignition_systems.shtml#glow). Hope this helps.
The problem with you oven is the FFD (flame faliure device ) also known as FSD (flame safety device) The way is works is that when an oven is ignited first time the heat from the low level flame heats phail at the end of the calliary tube which in turn increases the pressure within this tube forcing open the FSD valve to open allowing full gas through. when this fails it restricts the amount of gas flowing through it leaving the oven with a small flame. these are easily repalaced but the law says it must be done by a corgi registered engineer for gas safetey reasons...But 110 % that is your fault. HTH
my oven was converted to LP gas we move overseas.It worked for about a year then all of a sudden the oven stopped working. The burners work perfectly but the oven just keeps clicking after preheat is finished. We replaced the upper electronics board so what could it be now