Hello, I have a dayton lp gas heater. bought it second hand. intalled it and had gas hooked up. problem is, it will come on and fan will work, however, the flames underneath burn for about 3 seconds, die down, then it flames up again, repeately this is happening while the heater is on. I have checked the venting. any suggestions on what to do next.
the heater is a dayton, 45.000input/36,000output
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sounds like the air to gas setting is wrong, not enough air intake. there should be an air adjuster near the burn box. where the gas goes into the burn box. fallow the gas line to find it. adjust it till it burns correct. there also should be a gas pressure adjuster to, it should be near the burner.
Unit goes under sure heat name also. My unit emitted unburnt gas smell the minute pilot started, and was annoying during burner operation. I discovered they built unit with primary pilot that had 2 ports. They used LP and sealed off natural gas,instead turning lp/nat knob on back activates second pilot for natural gas use. This means natural gas goes thru LP pilot orifice and burns slightly off during normal natural gas use(by design). The unused natural gas orifice has 1 air mix hole and the LP orifice has 2 air mix holes. I carefully plugged 1 of the holes in the LP orifice and suddenly pilot gas flame seated correctly on orifice port.Gone was the unburnt odor of natural gas. The typical flame in a flame appearance now was exhibited by the small pilot,secondary pilot remained consistent with manual picture. Of course, to use with LP I would have to open blocked air mix hole in addition to the other changes per manual. Hope this helps someone with similar condition.
Hi, The heater is not proving the flame...and shutting down on safety... Check the flame sensor and all connections of the ground from the burner to the ignition control... The control may also be bad... for additional help with Dayton units go to www.grainger.com they sell that brand and have their own repair help techs.
Sounds like a bad fan switch. The switch is located on the heat exchanger and is 110 volt bi-metal switch. Follow the wires from the blower going back to the heatexchanger. Graingers can get you a new switch if you give them your model number. www.grainger.com.
its most likely dirt/rust in your burner assy , but as its 15 year old and propane do your self a favour and get it inspected by a registered gas/propane engineer .
ive witnessed propane explosions at first hand and they are scary
WW Granger is the biggest supplier I know of for dayton. Consult them for information and if its still available.
In lue of this find the oldest repair man you trust and ask him if he knowes anything about them. I know I could help if I could see what you have and had some more questions answered. Pilot ignition? Gas valve model? Does it have a regulator in the gas valve? Then you have to find a kit to block open the regulator. Then change the orfices to correct size or solder and redrill the old ones. Then maybe adjust the combustion air, and you may have to change the pilot burner orfice and adjust it.
After that you can fill the LP tank.
Hope this helps IF so please grade me accordingly and Good Luck.
Check your thermocoupling to make sure that it is sensing flame. You can tell if it is good or bad by the white on the tip of the flame sensor. The other problem would be a blocked or closed flue pipe. Make sure that the cap is not smashed down on the pipe on your roof
Ignite =Burn? I assume its gas. Sounds like its starved for combustion air and while open it is getting plenty of air. Check for obstruction to the burner inlet area and maybe a hornet built a mud nest during the off season in it so look closely. Also maybe the shutter (if so equipped) is not open. You don't mention any miscolored parts of the flame. It should be blue for the most part unless its a kerosene heater.