Question about Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

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Ruud silhouette #UHDG-07EAUER won't heat house

I have shut everything down.  Turned up thermostat  Turned on gas Turned on power Induced draft motor starts Igniter warms up (glows red) Main burner lights  Main burner remains powered and lit Indoor blower motor FAILS to start System SHUTS DOWN
What is causing the blower motor not to start? It suggests to clean the flame sensor unit with steel wool in my manual but doesn't tell me where it is.

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  • Perry Putnam
    Perry Putnam May 11, 2010

    Try turning the blower to on at the T-stat and tell me if the blower runs at all.

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Cleaning the flame sensor has nothing to do with blower motor not turning on. You either one of the following problems 1 bad cap for motor. 2 bad motor. 3 bad limit on blower housing or 4 a bad board. You will need a volt meter to check for these problems. Try seeing if the fans runs with unit of and fan switch turned to on. Also does motor hummmm. Is motor cage free ( can check by manually turning) If motor doesnt humm and the cage is free wheeling then you will need to find out if you have power going to the motor. If you find out that you do then you will need to change blower motor. If you do not have power then you will need to check limit with continuity tester on volt meter. If that checks fine only 1 thing can be wrong and that is the board.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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When i turn the heat up sometimes it takes a long time for the gas furnace to start ..why?


Watch your furnace when you turn the thermostat up...make sure to record everything that it is doing. If you have an induced draft, forced air system, then the heat sequence of order should go like this... Initial call for heat from tstat, Inducer vent motor turns on-pulls in the pressure switch, circuit board sends power to igniter whether it is spark or hot surface, then gas valve opens. Flame sensor senses flame, burner stays on, and blower motor kicks in to heat the space. If you notice any variance from this, then something needs to be checked by an HVAC Service Tech.

Dec 14, 2013 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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Heater check out list for heater failures


Almost all furnaces built after 1978 have intermittant type pilots.
Ca banned them requiring electronic spark or hot surface ignitors, followed by induced draft motors, pressure switches or centrifigal switches that "prove" a induced draft exists, allowing the pilot sequence to commence.
electronic spark type units have a high voltage low amperage spark that is AC. Fire rectifies electricity that passes through it meaning AC becomes DC ! Fire is a terrible conducter however as a result , the DC signal is only milliamps/volts signal strength. the DC prescence is proof a flame exists for pilot, and safe to commence to mainburners.

As long as pressure switches stay closed, safeties and limits stay closed
and the DC signal to the ignition module is not broken, the furnace will run.

The normal sequence of operation is upon a call for heat from the thermostat a 24 volt signal is sent to W white (heat circuit) at the low voltage terminal board on furnace.
from there depending on unit and age the heat circuit may include a circuit board, but it still has the typical limits and safetys reqired for operation
its just not using electromechanical relays to control fan and induced draft motor etc.

for the induced draft to begin ,all limits, safetys in heat circuit must be closed.

induced draft begins and a proving switch, either pressure or centrifigal close allowung the pilot to begin, a spark or hot surface ignitor is energized and a pilot flame established,modern types use flame rectification to prove a flame, older Carrier, Payne,types have a 3 wire switch in the piloyt assembly that is a bi metal that expands and contracts clicking open and shut, allowing pilot or main burners, depending if cold or hot.

pressure switches are attached with tubing to the induced draft wheel housing and sense pressure differential and close upon induced draft running, the orifices that the tube attaches to on induced draft housing often plugs or is restricted causing pressure switch to fail to close, or waver on open and close , open , close, .

if you can run the fan in the on postion , you have both high and low voltage to the furnace.

if you dont have fan control check power, breaker , fuses.

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1 Answer

How to trouble shoot trane 80 gas furnce


The 1st thing I do is go to the thermostat and put the Fan switch from Auto to the On position. If the fan operates this proves you have both high and low voltages and the breaker, fuses, transformer etc is functional, this saves one from going to the breakers and air handler often in an attic or roof or basement.
If the fan does not operate then I check for correct power.
Set the thermostat for heat mode and turn the temperature setting well above the rooms temperature. and observe the furnaces sequence of operation.
What you normally expect is upon the white circuit from the thermostat being energized with 24 volts, the induced draft motor will cycle for 30-60 seconds typically to pre purge the heat exchanger, after this purge the induced draft motor has a pressure switch that senses the induced draft operation thus proving the induced draft motors running and alloqw the ignition to begin, either a spark or a HSI, hot surface ignition type.
If you see no bright white light or hear a sparking noise by the burner area this is normal, this will be followed by a trial period for ignition, meaning the gas valve will be energized for a 30 second trial period, during this time the flame rectification proves a flame exists by a DC signal being sent back to the module by the flame sensor or the ground/burner ground.
This DC signal is very weak and easily interrupted and this is why we clean flame sensors and simply re seating wiring will often times correct a situation,
The typical issues are the induced drat pressure switch and the orifice that it's tubing connects to on the induced draft housing.
This port must be reamed to clear carbon and if not will cause a problem such as locking out requiring resetting power or a 5 hour wait for some units,
You need to insure the limits and roll outs are all closed, its all failrly simple if the LED is tellingyou the error as they do today.

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Remove at least one of the wires going to that solenoid on the gas valve. Check for continuity between the 2 legs of the solenoid. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad valve. If you indeed do have continuity start the furnace and see if voltage is going to the valve. If you have no voltage going to the valve then you could have a bad board. If voltage is going to the valve then the gas valve has failed internally or you ain't paid the gas bill. LOL.

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Goodman 95 %furnace keeps saying low pressure is stuck. changed out low pressure switch and high pressure switch and still have same problem.


That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve.
Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:


Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

Now here is how it should all go down:



Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with.
This will give you an idea where to start I hope.

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First make sure that your thermostat is turned to heat and auto settings. Then turn up t-stat to where it should be calling for heat.If nothing happens then make sure you have power to heater, gas valve is turned on and blower compartment door is securely latched. If still nothing turn t-stat to fan on and the blower should come on and run until you shut it off. If it does this then you know that you have power to furnace and that the blower works.After you are sure that you have power then remove thermostat cover from base. If stat wires are connected to front of base then disconnect red and white wires and temporairly touch them together. This should send power to your furnace and start the ingnition cycle. If this works then replace thermostat. The sequence of events in the ignition cycle are t-stat calls for heat, induced draft motor comes on and runs for about 20 seconds,then ignitor comes on and lights pilot,then burner lights for 1-2 mins and then blower comes on. I would start at the t-stst and work my way through it. If I can be of any help please ask. Thank you

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