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Re: Trying to replace broiler ignitor on Tappan...
Thanks for the updated model number. I took a look at your unit and I see from the factor there is a molex connctor if you follow the wires You will see this. Might want to pull out the bottom drawer and tackle this from this area. The wires coming from the ignitor should be long enough to insert them into the hole specifically for the oven ignitor and then from the bottom, make your splice under the unit via the drawer. I hope you are a smaller guy. Been there and done that.....If I can help further, I am here.
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probably a weak ignitor,even though they look like they are orange in color they may be weak and not passing enough current to keep the gas valve fully open to supply enough gas to properly heat the unit to temps,replace this part,a good test is to try the broiler,if this works ok then its for sure the bake ignitor
you have 2 posibilities the first one is very unprobable and the second will fix the oven
1) the new gas valve is defective and while the proper amprage is being supplied to it,it simply wont open
2) even though the bake ignitor is indeed coming on it isn't drawing the proper amp draw (3.2-3.6 amps) to open the gas valve ,the very fact the ignitor comes on totally eminates that the control isn't providing power to it for the bake ignitor to heat
i have been a appliance repair technician for over 30 years and am 100% confident that by replacing the bake ignitor the oven will work fine
you have a bad ignitor,take out the racks and remove the floor of the oven,you'll see the round ignitor with two 1/4 inch screws holding it on,you can remove the burner tube that the ignitor is connected to with the ignitor on it or you can remove the screws,cut the wires close to the old ignitor and remove it,screw on the new ignitor,leave around6 or 8 inches of wire on the new ignitor,cut back the old wires so you can wire nut the wires together,start the oven and the ignitor should ignite the flame in like 20 to 40 seconds.it doesn't matter what wires you connect,you don't have to worry about if the left wire coming out of the ignitor connects to the same wire the old one connected to,just as long as the wire nuts are tight on the 2 connecting wires you'll be fine.the part number is
WB13K21 and the ignitor is around 80 bucks.you can kill the power to the oven but no power is going to the ignitor if the bake isn't on so as long as you don't touch anything else you'll be fine,let me know how you make out
The problem is usually the ignitor not reaching the correct amp draw .When the ignitor does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. Even if the ignitor is glowing it may not still be reaching enough of an amp draw. The ignitor are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing this.
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.