We are having the same problem. The spout and lever both work, but the plastic piece the presses on the spout has cracked and can no longer put pressure on the dispenser. We are going to try gluing a small piece of plastic onto the back of the little lever to enforce it. I'll let you know if it works.
The problem isn't fixed, but given the price of the premiuim service, I'll just buy another coffee pot, probably another brand, since I have had problems with the Hamilton Beach. This is my fourth one, and I love the design, but they just don't last long enough.
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Hello. In most dishwashers, there is a special type of actuator device attached to the detergent dispenser to make the door open and then, during the rinse cycle, initiate the introduction of rinse agent into the tub. A wax motor (see the attached link below) is connected through a small wiring harness to the main control board. The name comes from how the motor operates--it has a slug of wax inside that, when heated, expands and pushes a lever which pops the latch on the dispenser door. Then, a two-position cam attached to the lever sets itself in position for the next actuation--the introduction of rinse agent. When the motor heats up the wax again, the cam allows the lever to push open the small valve on the rinse aid tank briefly so that a small amount of the liquid can drain into the tub and help remove excess water from the clean dishes during the rinse phase of the cycle. I hope I helped you! wax motor dishwasher image Google Search
There is a mechanical flap (trap door) that should open to allow ice that is being pushed by the auger in the bottom of the bin to fall out. Possibly the solenoid that opens the door does not work, or you just have an obstruction (piece of ice) preventing the door from opening far enough to allow the ice to pass through. Here is some helpful information and instructions.
The water line in your freezer door is frozen. Make sure the freezer setting isn't too high above midpoint. If you unplug the frig. and crack open the freezer door for a couple hours it will thaw out. Good job on posting description.
It could be the water valve side for the dispenser. So a couple of problems can be had with this description. 1. The electric solenoid for the valve is bad so it doesn't open the valve. 2.The valve itself could be bad so the solenoid opens it but nothing flows. 3. The water line could be frozen inside the door so no water flows. 4. The dispenser switch is bad or the plastic holder that holds the switch is bad so the switch fell out of its proper position. 5. The circuit board is bad.
Easy way to check is to pull out the fridge and take the water line off that valve by pressing down on the little ring around the line while pulling up on the line (tube thing). It should pull out easily(to reinsert just push the tubing back in without holding the little ring down, it goes in by itself and self-seals). With the tube out of the solenoid valve have someone operate the water dispenser lever and see if water shoots in your face ha ha. Read further if you're testing by yourself...
You can also do the same test from the front underside where the tubing has a coupling just under the door hinge area (so you can take the door off without cutting the tubing). Pull the lower skirt off the front of the refer and you should see the tubing and little coupling, it works the same, push down on the ring area and pull the tubing out. That way you don't have to move the fridge and can operate the dispenser lever yourself to see if water flows out the disconnected coupling. If water flows then the valve/switch/circuit board are working fine of course and your tubing is frozen at the door. You will need to defrost the tubing somehow, usually means a hairdryer blowing up into the dispenser area or turning off the whole refer and leaving the door open for a day.
If nothing happens (no water still) then you need to check if the solenoid is working electrically. Pull the fridge out and pull the wire plug off the ice maker valve and put the wire plug from the dispenser valve on the ice maker valve. Watch inside the ice maker and push the door dispenser lever, if water flows into the icemaker then the electrical door switch/circuit board is OK and the problem is likely the solenoid valve to the dispenser is bad or a frozen line in the door still. You get the idea, you can swap wires/valves and even tubing (if their the same size) around till you logically find the part not working. Remember in troubleshooting you're not really trying to find the broken part... you're trying to find ALL the other parts are working, which by process of elimination will lead you to the last part that ISN'T working.
If you are comfortable with electrical troubleshooting using a multimeter you can check for 110 vac at the plugs when the switch is press also but that depends on your tools and skill level, etc.
See this link for a diagram of that door assy and the parts involved.
Typically I'd be suspicious of the valve itself being bad or the circuit board, next on the list is the switch, and last would be the frozen line.
I had the same problem with this same machine. On this model there is a
spring-loaded piece of plastic that operates the pouring of the coffee.
After a few months of regular use, there is a design flaw in this piece
that wears out prematurely, causing the pour to slow down. This is why the stream runs towards the machine and not in your cup.
the plastic piece will break at the weak point and will stop pouring
altogether. To make matters worse, HB uses a weird screw that you cannot
turn unless you have the right bit, and, once you do finally get to the
piece, there is no where to order a replacement.
Hamilton Beach built an intentional flaw that is difficult/impossible to
repair so you will need to purchase another machine in under a year.
Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting
at the bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking
it. When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components. Although you may can clean it by just spraying everything you can reach with a spray bottle of bleach and water mix and let it set for a while and then rinse with clean water. Test an inconspicuous spot the check for damage. Or another mold killer may work just as well.
I had the same problem. I ended up taking the coffee machine apart and found that the reason coffee trickles out around the hot water spout is that the two coffee nozzles were partially plugged. Since I Had parts of the coffee machine apart I was able to clean it easily. It may also be possible to clean the assembly using a pick of some sort and clean out the holes of the two normal coffee spouts. Inside it is just a open cavity so gentle poking around and using some steaming hot water may do the trick.
If you want to take the machine apart you need to do the following:
1) take of the warmer plate on the top - 2 storz screws but an allen key works as well
2) take off the top plate of the machine - another 4 or 5 screws - make sure you empty the beans first otherwise you will have a mess
3) remove one screw from the right hand side of the removable coffee ground tray. Once this screw is removed the front panel is free to swing open except for the pipes connecting the front
4) unclip the steam assembly - there are a couple of plastic catches on the top. this will free the steam assembly from the front panel and also free a pipe connections. The steam dispenser pipe will also come free from the steam assembly.
5) remove the coffee pipes from the up and down sliding coffee dispenser. This is a small whitish color clip with 2 pipes connecting into it. The white clip has a little plastic catch on the top that frees it. The front panel should now swing open freely.
6) remove the sliding coffee dispenser from the front door. There are 4 plastic catches, 2 on either side. the whole front sliding coffee displenser now comes free
7) Take the sliding dispenser apart by release the 4 plastic catches on the front curved planel.
8) Inside the sliding dispenser is a white plastic piece that connected to the piping released in step 5. There is a small plastic catch that needs to be pressed while pulling fairly hard on the plastic piece and bending the whole piece.
9) You will now see the plugged spouts.
It goes back together really easily.