The saw starts and runs fine. All of a sudden it started to vibrate badly. As long as you cut on the back side of the chain, it cuts good. If you cut on the top side, it has a lot of power loss. All of this just started.
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Re: Husqvarna 345 power loss and vibrates
Replace the bar. Your bar has gone bad and that is why you are losing power. Bars are made by the chain saws to be completely oiled at all times. When the bar does not get oil the bar will start to warp and that is what will cause you lack of power when trying to due a top cut
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either blocked fuel filter in the fuel tank ( hook out and replace ) or the fuel tank breather is blocked thus causing a vacume in the tank, to prove this, when the saw starts to die slacken off the filler cap, this will allow air into the tank and it should pick up again, the breather is pressed into the tank on the r/h side rear.
Remove the bar and chain. Start the engine and observe the oil delivery port in the side of the engine case. At a fairly fast speed, the oil should ooze out of the port. If little or nothing, check the pump, lines, and in-tank filter. If ok, clean the bar drive-end holes of sawdust and dirt, especially the small passages that go from the large holes out to the chain groove. Clean the entire groove and the outer end sprocket. Reassemble and test the oiling by running the bar tip at speed in front of a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments. Hope this helps!
Find the 2 screws. There will be a (h) high and (L) low. These are for hig rpms and low rpms. First tighten the screws. Then unscrew them about 1-1/4 turns. Then start the saw and let it warm up. Start with the high rpms first pull the trigger all the way then adjust the screw in 1/8 turns either way until it is running good at high rpms. Then work on the L rpms. Get the saw to idle then pull the trigger, there should not be any hesitation when going from L to H rpms. Just adjust the low same as the High. They have to work together so if the high is good and the low is not just right turn the h a small amount. If you have any more questions let me know
I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!
Turn the Hus 345 chain saw upside down, you may see a little Icon of a oil droplet and a + - arrow by the chain. THe adjustment screw is not pictured in any of the standard user manuals,. but it is a small black slot headed screw over a rectangale metal tab by the chain. I believe if you turn it counter-clockwise, it will give you more oil,, It did for me. If you have the bar off, you can start the saw and see it come out the hole, that would verify your oil pump is working. Make sure the holes on the bar are clean also. running the saw at a fast idle for 1 min should oil the chain well enouth that it starts spraying off the end of the bar when you gun the engine.