There is a time clock device that regulates when it should go into a defrost cycle. and a lot of times this is the problem you should be able to locate this in your owners manual and they are fairly easy to fix yourself..
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You may need to replace the thermostat. Sound like it works until the low temp setting is reached and then can't maintain that temperature. Given that it will turn the machine on when the refrigerated compartment is warm this implies that the thermostat works until it breaks the connection when the low temperature target is reached.
Check freezer fan is working.If ice formed over freezer fan by working. It's a common problem due to irregular defrosting. Keep freezer setting temp at 5 degree. And check defrost timer, thermostat,heater are working properly. Turn timer with small tip screw driver to shut off fridge. If not shut off, replace timer. Turn counter clockwise defrost thermostat. If fridge not shuts off replace defrost thermostat.Check heater by join the 2 wires in the defrost thermostat. And after 1 minute, unplug power and keep your arm on heater. If it's warm heater is o.k. Otherwise, replace heater. Once heater starts work at regular interval controlled by thermostat and timer, defrost will be good and effective cooling will also be in fridge compartment.
hello. this is a common problem. The thermostat for a refrigerator/freezer is in the refrigerator part. Normally the refrigerator is kept at around 40 degrees. The compressor turns on as required to maintain this tempearture. The evaporator coils are concentrated in the freezer side, so that the freezer stays at around 0 degrees while the fridge side is held at 40.
If the ambient temp is around 25 degrees, the refrigerator compartment will get below the setpoint of 40 degrees, and gradually continue down towards 25 degrees. The compressor will not have to run at all to maintain this. In fact, the compressor is designed not to run, once the refrigerator compartment gets below the setpoint, for fear of freezing the contents of the fridge.
The lack of circulating refrigerant due to the non-running compressor means that the freezer compartment will gradually warm up to 25 degrees.
If the unit were just a freezer, it would work fine in the unheated garage. If it were just a refrigerator, it would not run in these conditions, and the contents would eventually freeze, but it is otherwise OK.
PS kindly rate my answer. Thank you.
How to check everything http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Sorry woodchuck789 Rank: Guru. The Dometic RM2201 does not have any of these things; vent(damper), fan in the freezer, auto defrost, defrost timer, defrost heater, or a defrost thermostat. mickamoose, Most likely the camper is not sitting level. It needs gravity to work correctly. The fins in the back of the refrigerator get cooling from the refrigerant leaving the freezer compartment. If all else fails, leave to freezer compartment door open inside the refrigerator. Parts for this unit are getting hard to find and these RM2201 refrigerators will never work as well as the one in your house. One alternative is to replace the refrigerator with a dorm or office type refrigerator. They are cheep and work well except only on 115 Volts AC.
OK as long as you used a hair drier, and not a screw driver to defrost this machine, you should be fine, it shoudl take no more then 24-36 hours to regain the correct temp, this being said, not real comfortable with the over the internet diag of a unit that potentially "keeps people alive"
you need to locate the defrost timer should be in the same box the temp control is some have little knobs some have funky little screw heads like the screws in bathroom stalls should be a hole in the housing where the thermostat is turn it slowley clockwise till you hear thu unit come on if it before you do that smack the temp control first a couple of times make sure its not sticking then let me know
Unless specifically made for use in a garage most units won't work properly. The owners manual should say what the temp range for proper operation is (usually 55F is the low range). This is because the refrigerator section doesn't need to be "cooling" to maintain 37F if the temps on the outside are below 55F. These things are made to work in a 70F room and will not work properly if under 55F. Stupid thing thinks it's cold enough so it will never turn on, the refer section will stay cold/cool due to outside temps but since the compressor never runs the freezer will just be the same temp as the refer section (at best). Sorry, but in order for a freezer or refrigerator to work in an unheated space it must have the temp control device controling the freezer section NOT the fresh food section. In other words, that model will not work in a garage unless the temps are above 55F always.