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Loosen the nut that holds the back wheel and pull it back until the chain is tight and then retighten the nut. If when the chain is tight, the wheel is not on the rear frame, you need to take a link out of the chain.
does it make the "clicking" noise when coasting, pedaling or both? If it is only when pedaling, check to make sure the cranks are not rubbing on a chain guard or hitting the frame, if not then the chain is probably too tight and it is the gear cog teeth meshing with the tight chain. Loosen the rear axle nuts and slide the rear wheel forward slightly, this should take care of it. If the noise happens while coasting then one of the wheels could be rubbing on the frame intermittently, or the hub bearings could be too tight (also making it difficult for small legs to pedal) and the bearings are crushed and flattening making the "clicking" noise as they are being ground up.
Put the chain to the inside of the front cog wheel, beside the pedals, first but not onto it, so you have plenty of room for pulling the chain to the rear. Fit the wheel back into place and before tightening it pull down the spring loaded arm, with the small cog wheel beside the back wheel. This takes the tension off the chain and allows you to put it into place on the back wheel. Tighten up the wheel. When it's tightened fit the chain onto the top of the front cog wheel. Lift the back wheel off the ground and turn the pedals forward. The chain will click onto the front cog wheel when you have turned the pedals one complete turn.
With the wheel off remove the two pins which locate the guide wheels on the deraileur. Take off the guide wheels and the guide plate. Now straighten the chain and unwind the snarled area. Locate the chain around the smallest cog wheel on the back wheel and mount the wheel to the bike. The chain will hang slack. Now mount the upper guide wheel and guide plate to the deraileur making sure that the chain feeds off the rear cog and passes around the guide wheel towards the front of the bike. Push the deraileur forwards relative to the chain and slip the lower guide wheel in between the guide plates and pushing the chain back in the guides & fasten with the pin. As you reassemble the plates and wheels on the deraileur be sure to observe carefully which way the chain is running. It is quite logical and this should prevent mistakes being made
Pull the chain out slightly, away from the bicycle frame, at the bottom just behind the front cog wheel (attached to the pedals). While holding it out turn the pedals backwards and the chain will come off.
This one's easy enough.. If you move the derailer through it's full stretch you will see that part of it will be blocked in each direction by a small screw. These screw adjusters are to stop the chain from running over the end gears, and sometimes if they're too tight they can stop the chain from reaching the gears in the first place. A small screwdriver is all you should need, turn the bike upside down, loosen these screws completely and then change gear to one end first until it runs smoothly on the chain and then do the same with the other. These are designed to be adjustable so you can add or remove gears/change wheel sizes etc and then readjust to run smoothly..
You will have to remove the rear wheel and take it in to a bicycle shop and have the rear cog replaced. The freewheel part inside it has likely broken and will only rotate in both directions. It should rotate to back pedal and then catch as you pedal forward.