The only thing visible through the viewfinder is the aperature setting. I know it is not the lense because it is the same with it removed. The shutter also never works. I have replaced the batteries but there is no change. The camera has not been used in at least 10 years, but by all appearances it is in like new condition. If anyone could help me I would appreciate it very much.
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These use two of the L44 common button battery. The + sides of the battery (flat) goes towards the body ... the bump goes towards the battery holder. Check the contacts on the body and where the threads (-) contact the body. Not voltage, no work. Assuming you have 4 different batteries, can you check the batteries ? One bad one of two will not allow voltage. I have bought new button batteries that were dead right from the package. Strange two cameras are dead. They have electronic shutters. The LED should light up in the viewfinder when the shutter is slightly pressed.
Are you using an auto-focus m4/3 lens? I have about 20 lenses for this camera and only 1 of them is an auto-focus m4/3 lens. I have an adapter so I can use my 4/3 lenses on it in auto-focus mode along with other various mounts (including cctv) that do not support auto-focus. So if you are using a non-auto-focus lens, you will need to manually focus the pictures.
If you are certain it is an auto-focus lens, are you sure you have it set to auto-focus?
What settings do you have your camera set to (aperature mostly is what I'd like to know)? Try adjusting your aperature to be small (to increase your DOF).
Also what lens are you using and what is your focal distance? It could be your lens has a larger or shallower focal distance than what you are trying to achieve (like a macro lens doesn't work that great for landscape photography or a telephoto lens doesn't work great for macro photography).
Last thought: is your lens or sensor dirty? A dirty lens can cause focusing issues if it is REALLY dirty and a dirty sensor can too (sensor is a bigger pain to clean. I strongly recommend taking it to the pros as they scratch really easily). Dirty lenses can be cleaned with a blower and a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol if those 2 things don't clear it out.
Depending on how new your Minolta SLR film camera was, the lens may or may not work on a Minolta Digital SLR. In many cases, a lens with the correct mount (in this case, a Minolta mount) can be used on the same brand of camera in the digital format.
One thing you should know is that DSLR sensors are, generally speaking, smaller than the size of a 35mm film negative. Long story short, that means that your lens will have a magnification factor on the DSLR. Usually, it is in the range of 150%, so a 70-300 lens from a film camera would cover 105 to 450 on a Digital SLR.
To be sure about the mount, you'll need to seek advice specific to Minoltas -- probably best to take your lens to a local camera shop and see for sure if it fits and what features will work (aperature, auto-focus, etc) and which won't work on the DSLR.
it may be a battery , or stuck shutter. remove lense and look inside mabe give some things a wiggle. make sure you have a full battery that you know works. if your not sure and it is a valuable camera , take it to a service guy :-)
put simply the ISO number is how sensitive the film is to light, the higher the number the more sensitive the film. The ISO on the camera sets the exposure system to give the proper exposure for that film (the f/n80 usually sets the ISO automaticly). Also the higher the ISO the more grainy the picture, I would recommend using ISO 200 film for the pictures you describe. I would set the camera to the P setting it is a good all-around setting.
One problem is that a D70 viewfinder is dark to start with. I don't notice this when shooting with mine unless I pick up my old Pentax Spotmatic for some reason, and then I am reminded how bright an optical viewfinder can be. So, in many cases, you will find the DOF preview useless not because it isn't working, but because the scene is simply too dark for you to see the differences.
Second thing is to notice what DOF you are seeing when you DON'T have DOF pressed. I think all modern cameras give you viewfinder at wide open aperatures -- so until you press DOF, you are seeing the focal depth produced by your lens' widest aperature. So don't expect to see much difference if you hit DOF with the aperture set at 2.2 on a F/1.8 lens -- you're comparing very similar lens apertures.
In fact, I notice that with my F/1.8 lens, I don't see any differences in where my focus lies until I have closed the lens down to maybe F/8. But beyond there, I can clearly see that more and more of the scene is in focus.
If you're still curious but not seeing it, try some test shots. Change the aperture and using shutter time to compensate, and see if your photo DOF matches the preview.
The mirror motor is probably the problem, you'll usually hear a whirring noise like a motor spinning. It's about a $125 repair, requiring the mirror box to be removed and the mirror driving motor replaced. Pentax originally put a plastic gear on the motor shaft - the replacements have a brass gear.