Ive checked the fuses, boards inside for broken solder points etc... everything looks fine. lights power on and stay on, theres a slight pop sound heard when powering on and off, and a slight crackle sound when adjusting the gain knob on the sub itself. the thru ports work fine, and still transfer sound to the mains.
not sure how to test anything else, what should be checked next.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Could be a broken wire. You need to check that power is actually getting to the machine control. I don't know your level of experience, but it means getting inside the electrics which can be dangerous. Safest way is to disconnect from the mains and check the continuity of the 3 plug wires as far along the length as possible. A simple multi-meter is all you need. Follow the cable from the plug to inside the machine, check where the blue wire from the plug is fitted inside the machine and with the meter set on ohms, touch one lead of the meter to that spot and the other lead to the blue wire inside the plug. If you get zero then the wire is not broken. Do the same with both ends of the brown wire and then the earth (green/yellow). Doing it this way isolates you from the live electrics.
If the wires are not broken (i.e. you have continuity) then the problem is with the machine itself and will probably require an engineer. It could be an internal fuse or a complete circuit board failure and anywhere in between.
I hope that is of some help.
With volt-ohm meter (vom) check for 24v input power. Most output voltage will be 5v DC, check for that. If the relays are soldered on to the board, your only solution is to replace the board. A "ticking" sound may be a bad relay. One check you can make is to disconnect any incoming power to the unit and remove the board. Inspect the soldered side of the board, if you see any black or brown spots, most likely the board is bad and will need to be replaced.
Replace the deflection/power supply board and return the convergence board. There are probably bad soldering connection points all over the bottom of that board with the fly back transformer. Slight soldering skill required.
You may have blown the inline fuses for output sound. Amps have alot of fuses under the hood. take the amp cover off and check all fuses are not blown / wire broke inside fuse. Some fuses are hidden under circuit boards on some amps, check everywhere possible to check all fuses. If all fuses are fine and no broken wires inside them, you may have loose connection where your speaker wire ports are inside the amp. Check they arent black or loose. if they black they are blown as there usually soldered (a silver colour)
Is the amp in protect mode? Maybe a red light on the amp. I would also open the amp and check the RCA connections aren't loose. It's usually a solder joint. Swap the amp out as well. Or check your power wire. Sometimes amps come on when it gets remote power, but actually the power wire has a bad fuse or connection.
have you tried checking some voltages in the convergence board it could be the damage is there and not the deflection board since the 320vdc was connected thru the yoke. you can also try to deactivate the convergence board to see if the tv set will remain on this will give you a better idea of where the problem is. good luck!
I had EXACTLY this problem. Fuse is OK. LED barely looks like its glowing.
Take six screws off cover, remove cover.
Inside, look at the power supply board. There will be a 2200 uF capacitor, probably rated at 10V. It's about an inch long and 3/8 of an inch in diameter. If it it bulging slightly at the top, it needs to be replaced.
Take two screws off power supply board, There are also two plastic standoffs holding the board on, it's best to squeeze those with a needlenose pliers to release the board.
I replaced the cap with another 2200 uF, but rated at 16V. Now the player works again.
T14 is part of the +15v power supply that feeds the input board.
It is actually a transistor.
If this is the only problem on the board, then this transistor could be resoldered back on but you will have to make sure it tests OK and it attaches to the heatsink the same way it came off. ie make sure it is electrically isolated from the heatsink
It seems if there is no fuses blown on the power amp board you might be one of the lucky ones.
In my opinion this amp is a clever design but is under-engineered for robustness