Ive checked the fuses, boards inside for broken solder points etc... everything looks fine. lights power on and stay on, theres a slight pop sound heard when powering on and off, and a slight crackle sound when adjusting the gain knob on the sub itself. the thru ports work fine, and still transfer sound to the mains.
not sure how to test anything else, what should be checked next.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check out that the output is not shorted on the terminal strip or near the connectioon to the sub woofer speaker driver.......if not then there is some other problem and you need to take it to a trained technician .......as you yourself can't rectify the problem.....
- fuse inside the three prong power plug connector on the sub (if there is one) - see if it has a fuse compartment built in - it should slide out kind of like a small drawer - sometimes it has also a separate place for a spare plug in there - the fuses used are of glass type.
- fuse mounted into a fuse holder soldered onto the circuit board - glass type fuse
- fuse soldered directly onto the circuit board - sometimes the type used is glass (it may have a heatshrink tube around it so it doesn't look like a fuse at a first glance, also there are other types of fuses that can be soldered directly onto the board - these are in the form of a small vertical cylinder, usually of a dark reddish colour with white / yellow print on the top - they look somewhat alike to small electrolytic capacitors, but are encased in dark red plastic with the pins located directly underneath the fuse.
If the speaker cable was pulled with a lot of force and at an angle to its connector, the most likely problem is a broken connection inside the wire. A visual inspection will not prove that problem but you can try connecting the speaker and wire to another output on the receiver. If the speaker and wire prove to be good then it's most likely that the solder point for that speaker output was broken on the circuit board.
Hi There, There are 3 internal fuses to check that clip onto the main amp board. You can access them by undoing the two screws that are on the top and the bottom of the sub. They have flat large heads and you will need a hex key to unscrew them. If it is one of the fuses that has gone it will either be discoloured as in burnt or you will see the metal inside has split. Simply replace these with a new fuse and hey presto you should be back up and running. You might also want to check that none of the push on cable ends have dropped off fom the board as this may also stop connection going through. If you need any parts for the sub or fuses then www.LondonSpeakerShop.com will be able to supply them (that is if you're in the UK). Hope this helps. Grant (from www.LondonSpeakerHire.com)
T14 is part of the +15v power supply that feeds the input board.
It is actually a transistor.
If this is the only problem on the board, then this transistor could be resoldered back on but you will have to make sure it tests OK and it attaches to the heatsink the same way it came off. ie make sure it is electrically isolated from the heatsink
It seems if there is no fuses blown on the power amp board you might be one of the lucky ones.
In my opinion this amp is a clever design but is under-engineered for robustness
No sound problem is power amplifier trouble maybe the IC there is
defected or cold solder of joint of the parts.Cold solder issues - each
component is soldered into small
holes on the printed circuit board which in turn connects said
component to the
other components. Due to time, heat, use, some solder joints would be
or loose. It is possible that the cold solder is still minimally
(hanging by a thread). When the receiver turns on heat would be
generated which would
be sufficient to further loosen up the solder joint to the point it no
provides electrical contact. Jarring the unit creates movement inside
re establish the contact, sometime good enough sometimes not enough.
Again, since the unit still operates (sometimes) then it is highly
probable that there are no defective components. As you have surmised, it is
possibly a loose connection, solder joints are "connections"
except that molten soldering lead is used to attach/connect the component to
the board, "loose connection" in this sense is equal to "cold
Again on the assumption of no defective parts, then seeking a more
buddy for the soldering might be to your advantage. This is of course
addition to the possible electrical hazards when repairing....