Huskylock 430 - STOP BLADE FROM CUTTING/REMOVE BLADE
Could anyone out there tell me how to stop my Huskylock 430 from cutting the fabric off as I overlock. Sometimes I just want to join two pieces of fabric together. Have tried using a screwdriver to take the blade off, but no such luck. Does anyone have this machine and know whether the blade can be lifted out of the way or removed altogether? Thanks in advance for your help. :)
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Ok, it's a serger. Wondered why a sewing machine would be cutting unless it had the cut-n-sew accessory.
Most likely the blades are damaged or malfunctioning. Is the blade still moving when it is stitching? Is it just chomping away at the fabric but not cutting? If so, either or both blades need to be replaced. Consult your owner's manual. Usually only one blade can be installed without any technical knowledge. You can probably order the replacement blade and install it yourself. However, the other usually needs to be replaced by a knowledgeable technician because it requires some precision.
Has the blade stopped moving at all? If so, how long has it been since a thorough cleaning and oiling? Take it for service.
No you do not need the cutting blade to serge but you shouldn't have to remove the blade it you should be able to push the knob at base of blade inward or pull it outward to turn blade downward out of the way.
You should be able to disengage the cutting blade. Probably a button that you push in then rotate anti clockwise, this will turn the blade down under the machine therefore not cutting the fabric.
More than likely the cutter/knives need replacing or are not coming up all the way to catch the fabric. Put a piece of fabric on the plate just before the cutters and turn the hand wheel slowly. Are the cutters coming up above the fabric and moving to below the fabric to complete the cut? If not, open the front cover/door and turn the hand wheel watching the cutters' movements. You should see the gears that travel up and down. Many times this area becomes packed with lint/fabric and binds the movement. I usually take a large needle and dig out the lint/fabric or whatever else is stuck in that area. You'll be surprised how much you will remove from that area.
this sounds like an overlocker/serger machine you are using? if the fabric is catching on the overlocking tongue it could be a number of factors, have you lifted the top cutting blade out of the way and forgot to put it back into place? That would be my first thought, the top and bottom blade move against each other cutting the fabric. Rolled hemming usually requires the blade to be set on about 2, or middle of its setting range, the stitch finger is pulled back out of the stitching area, top looper thread is loosened off and bottom looper thread is tightened up, resulting in the top looper thread wrapping around the edge of the fabric and pulling the cut edge down under within the seam, forming the rolled hem.
I am assuming this is a simple stretch waist band with elastic about 2cm wide attached to a skirt or trousers. You need to measure your wist and cut elastic that length plus 2cm. Then join the two ends by overlapping them 2cm and zig zagging the elastic together with regular sewing machine. Now mark the elastic in quarters, ie hold it flat with the join in the middle and mark each edge with chalk or a fabric removable marker. Then put the marks together and mark the edges again so you have 4 marks equally spaced. Now do this for your garment too. It may be bigger in back so mark front and back, then half this to find the side quarters. Put elastic on inside of garment against raw edge and pin the quarter marks on elastic and garment together. Set up overlocker for 4 thread wide seam. Test seam and adjust tensions if necessary. Now you need to serge the edge of the fabric and elastic together, trimming the fabric but not cutting the elastic and stretch the elastic to fit the garment as you stitch. Elastic on top, fabric right side down underneath. Take out pins before you get near them! Start by lifting the front of the presser foot with your finger and placing fabric and elastic under, then start stitching on and straighten up once the seam is onto the elastic. Dont lift the pressure foot, you just stitch, stop, stretch the elastic to the fullness of the fabric, hold it and seam forward a few inches, then stop and repeat the process. Once right round go over your starting point, then turn and serge off the fabric edge and chain off. Cut, pull the chain to pull it flat and tie a hald hitch in it right up close to fabric. Now turn the elastic band to the inside of the garment. You need to secure it. Usually a straight stitch just onto the lower edge of the elastic with sewing machine from outside.
This problem is usually when the lower blade drops below the sewing plate. Look at the blade in relation to the plate and see if it has dropped below the plate, then you can reset the blade. If it is not the upper blade may be too dull to cut so it will need to be replaced.
Sometimes the thread tension needs to be cleaned out. I put a smal screw driver in where the silver tension guides are (between the dials) and open them up and wiggle them a little bit.
If the machine is cutting theads and or not catching threads on the back the timing may need to be adjusted.