Question about Amana ALG643RB Gas Dryer

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Dryer shuts off during drying operation and fails to restart.

When I remove front panel and observe the operation the dryer work fine. All ducts and filter passages are clean. Help?

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Reach inside and turn the drum. If it ain't easy as pie to turn then something is casing the motor to get hot and quit.Check slides and rollers.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

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3 month old dryer is not drying, takes two drying cycles to get clothes dry.


Bad airflow to outside. To prove this, remove the hose and dry a load with windows open back and front of house. If they dry fast, you have a blockage in the hose to the wall or in the connector through the wall. Can also get birds nests in there if the flaps are faulty or weak.

Sep 14, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Knemore he4 taking longer to dry clean vents has heat and blowing fine


make sure the lint filter duct is clean,you can remove the back panel if the filter is on top and remove the duct to clean it or if the filter is up front pop off the bottom panel,remove the filter and remove the duct,also if the vent line is long remove it from the back of dryer and stick a leaf blower in it and blow it to the outside,make sure there isn't a cage or anything blocking the outside hood,if there is remove what's there,also if this is a gas dryer you could have bad gas coils located on top of the gas valve,when the coils start to fail they will let the gas in until they heat up and then after around 15 to 30 minutes no more heat until they cool down again,you can run the dryer next time you use it and after 15 or 20 minutes remove the bottom panel or if filter is on top thee should be a cover on front panel,look at the ignitor,if it glows but no flame you have bad gas coils,hope this helps and next time send the full model number off of the machine you're having problems with

Mar 23, 2013 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

On my Bosch Nexxt 500 Series Electric Dryer keeps shutting off and gives the E-01 error we have check the exhaust air duct on back of the dryer and we have vacuumed the inside bearing shield what else...


Motor won't work
Lint screen hi-limit (thermal cutout) tripped.
Clean lint screen and clean lint and other debris from front shield, then replace hi-limit. Also check exhaust duct length & # of elbows.
Wire harness failed.
Run resistance or continuity checks to track down broken wire or connector. Replace failed wire harness.
Display shows "E:01" during drying.
Lint filter, air duct or air damper is blocked.
Air leaking past felt drum seal.
Air duct is too long, too small or has too many bends. Inadequate ventilation around dryer (i.e. in a closet).
Clean out filter, air duct and air damper.
Replace felt drum seal. If seal doesn't fit snugly onto drum, wet felt and dry it by running a timed dry cycle for 20 minutes (felt will shrink and fit drum snugly).
Shorten, enlarge, reroute and reduce # of bends in air duct. Move dryer to an area

Jan 09, 2011 | Bosch Nexxt 500 Dryer

1 Answer

Splendide washer washes fine but will not dry model 2100


Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.

Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.

After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.

Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.

If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.

(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).

If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.

NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!

Oct 14, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool Duet Steam Dryer Beeping


Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!@#$%^

Dec 16, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool Duet Steam Dryer and it beeps during drying. When I open the door, the beeps stops. The clothes is also not dry


Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.&^$%#$

Dec 16, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

4 Answers

Frigidaire GLGQ642A Gas Dryer Problem - runs warm - cycles hot then cool


Hi,

It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.


Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.

Aug 11, 2008 | Frigidaire GLGQ642A Gas Dryer

3 Answers

LG WM 3431 does not dry


Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD / WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However, WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual downloaded from http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my repairs.

Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for your screw-ups.

Trouble date: January 2006

Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.

Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without “Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.

Trouble date: March 2008

Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.

Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.

Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.

Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at 2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while the kitchen timer was still running.

Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and 4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.

Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.

Lessons learnt:

Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.

Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the Duct Assembly (condensing).

Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.

Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side. Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and secure bellows.

Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush. Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end. Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and it appears to be so for many users as well.

User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning maintenance is required.

extracted from http://www99.epinions.com/content_427670867588?alert_type=0&submit=Submit
please visit and leave a positive comment if your trouble was solved. tq.

Jan 29, 2008 | LG WM3431 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Washer dryer is no longer drying


two things to check take rear half of cabinet off and check the dryer duct (lhs from front) is not blocked. this is very common check water is being taken in during dry - the water is used to condense steam from the drying clothes. easiest way to check this is to see that some water is being drained during the drying cycle. i assume that drain is operating ok

Jun 03, 2007 | Zanussi ZWD1270 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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