Question about Sunbeam SNB652SAAW Dishwasher

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Electrical cable for the power pulled out of machine

I reconnected the ground wire but I'm not sure which terminals to connect the neutral(white wire) or the hot feed(black wire) I thought I had them connected right but when I turn on the power without starting the machine it makes a humming noise. The machine is a SUNBEAM SNB652SAAW

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  • Yvonne Swart
    Yvonne Swart Apr 09, 2014

    Many thanks I had to call in a electrisian working on AEG.

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Ground wire will be GREEN or bare copper wire. White neutral wire will go to chrome colored AC terminal. BLACK(or maybe brown or other darker color) hot wire goes to brass colored terminal.

If terminals on dishwasher are not chrome(white metal) and brass(yellow metal) colored, then you must look for other ID on Dishwasher side. If terminals or wires on dishwasher side are not a different color, then it does not matter which of the two AC wire, neutral or hot, goes to which. The ground wire is the safety wire against against shock from fault hot wire getting to chassis of washer.

Humming sounds more like dishwasher is in the middle of a timing cycle, but I could be wrong and it is sometimes best to find someone to look at your washer when electrical wires are being hooked up.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Switching 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord


if theres a wire from the center terminal on the dryer terminal board going to the dryer case disconnect it,then Red & Black on the cord go to the outer 2 terminals on the dryer terminal board,the White goes to the terminal in the center between where you put the Red & Black wires this is the Neutral wire,then the Green wire connects to any metallic portion on the dryer case as this is the SAFETY Ground wire and also Red & Black can go on either outer terminal on the dryer terminal board as these are not polarity sensitive because its A.C. power so wire it on the dryer terminal board as in (RED-WHITE-BLACK) on the dryer terminal strip and connect the GREEN to any Metallic portion of the dryer case

Dec 30, 2012 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

Tip

How to wire Intermatic T103 and T104 timers


VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is _NOT_ ALWAYS_ the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers.

Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must _never_be connected together _again_. Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must _always_ remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire. This is very important for safety considerations.

If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you _must_ protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post.

DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE:
Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer:

1...A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104.

2...A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 240 volts. This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY.

3...A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to red is 240 volts. Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104.

The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor. The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal "A" and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory.

Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the "GR" terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the "GR" (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE.

WIRING THE TIMER:
The wiring diagram for the T103 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T103.pdf
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3):

Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker:
Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal "A".
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the "GR" terminal, which is the green screw on the case.

Outgoing wires to 240 volt load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the "GR" terminal.
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING _120_ VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1):

Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source:
Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case.

Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s):
Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

The wiring diagram for the T104 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T104.pdf
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2):

Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker:
Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the "GR" terminal.

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.

Outgoing wires to load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal "GR".

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES:
Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off.
Comment by gotgeek2, posted on Jan 08, 2010ckuzkuz, I'm a licensed master electrician in 2 states with 30 years in the trade. I've installed a lot of Intermatic timers over the years. I wrote this tip because I saw that a lot of folks were having problems wiring them.

on Mar 07, 2010 | Garden

Tip

How to wire Intermatic T103 and T104 timers


These instructions are for USA residential wiring only.

VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is _NOT_ ALWAYS_ the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers.

Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must _never_be connected together _again_. Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must _always_ remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire. This is very important for safety considerations.

If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you _must_ protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post.

DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE:
Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer:

1...A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104.

2...A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 240 volts. This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY.

3...A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to red is 240 volts. Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104.

The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor. The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal "A" and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory.

Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the "GR" terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the "GR" (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE.

WIRING THE TIMER:
The wiring diagram for the T103 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T103.pdf
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3):

Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker:
Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal "A".
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the "GR" terminal, which is the green screw on the case.

Outgoing wires to 240 volt load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the "GR" terminal.
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING _120_ VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1):

Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source:
Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case.

Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s):
Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

The wiring diagram for the T104 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T104.pdf
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2):

Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker:
Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the "GR" terminal.

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.

Outgoing wires to load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal "GR".

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES:
Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off.

on Dec 28, 2009 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

Trying to change plug from a 3pronge hookup to a 4.The dryer only has 3 wires to hook up extenstion plug has white,red,black,green ...what do i do


It is your responsibility
 To contact a qualified electrical installer.
 To be sure that the electrical connection is adequate and in
conformance with the National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA
70-latest edition and all local codes and ordinances.
The National Electric Code requires a 4-wire supply
connection for homes built after 1996, dryer circuits involved
in remodeling after 1996, and all mobile home installations.
A copy of the above code standards can be obtained from:
National Fire Protection Association, One Batterymarch Park,
Quincy, MA 02269.
 To supply the required 3 or 4 wire, single phase, 120/240 volt,
60 Hz., AC only electrical supply (or 3 or 4 wire, 120/208 volt
electrical supply, if specified on the serial/rating plate) on a
separate 30-amp circuit, fused on both sides of the line. A
time-delay fuse or circuit breaker is recommended. Connect
to an individual branch circuit. Do not have a fuse in the
neutral or grounding circuit.
 Do not use an extension cord.
 If codes permit and a separate ground wire is used, it is
recommended that a qualified electrician determine that the
ground path is adequate.
Electrical Connection
To properly install your dryer, you must determine the type of
electrical connection you will be using and follow the instructions
provided for it here.
 If local codes do not permit the connection of a neutral ground
wire to the neutral wire, see "Optional 3-wire connection"
section.
 This dryer is manufactured ready to install with a 3-wire
electrical supply connection. The neutral ground wire is
permanently connected to the neutral conductor (white wire)
within the dryer. If the dryer is installed with a 4-wire electrical
supply connection, the neutral ground wire must be removed
from the external ground conductor screw (green screw), and
secured under the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the
terminal block. When the neutral ground wire is secured under
the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the terminal block,
the dryer cabinet is isolated from the neutral conductor.
 A 4-wire power supply connection must be used when the
appliance is installed in a location where grounding through
the neutral conductor is prohibited. Grounding through the
neutral is prohibited for (1) new branch-circuit installations,
(2) mobile homes, (3) recreational vehicles, and (4) areas
where local codes prohibit grounding through the neutral
conductors.

Sep 23, 2011 | Estate EED4100SQ Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Mains wire at back of fridge has come out how do i re-wire it


Hi, are you saying that the main power cord has been pulled loose from all connections? Has any componants come along with it? Wiring a power cord is fairly an easy task if you are familar some what with wire colors for a 120 volt power cord. You should be able to take a good look at where it has come apart and reconnect the cord with wire connectors, as Hot would be black to black, and white is nuetral, so white to white and green for ground to the appliance. Now, If you have accidently pulled out the wiring from the compressor terminals, as the start, run, and common terminal, I need to no this to quide you through this, as there is also a overload relay that is wired through the common terminal to protect the compressor against an overload. Please get back to me if this has happened.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Jan 13, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The power cord on my Whirlpool washing machine is not connected. There are 4 cables (red, black, white, and green). I can see where the black, white, and red, but where does the green one go? There is...


The following link explains how to correctly install a power cord on your dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

The main difference between the 3-wire and 4-wire configuration is how the Neutral (WHITE) wire and Ground (GREEN or BARE COPPER) wire are terminated on the terminal block in the back of the dryer:

- In a 4-wire configuration, these two wires are INDEPENDENT of each other and are terminated separately.

Terminate the wires at the terminal block by matching the corresponding colors:

RED to RED (HOT) 120VAC
BLACK to BLACK (HOT) 120VAC
WHITE to WHITE (Neutral) 0VAC
GREEN (Ground) - attached to a ground lug that grounds it to the equipment cabinet.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you

Dec 24, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Electric cord hook-up


White wire connects to the neutral (probably the center terminal), red and black to the most available terminal after the neutral lead is connected. Green wire is for ground... There should be a ground screw in the connector panel, but if not, be sure to securely attach the Green wire (ground) somewhere on the frame of the dryer. Be sure it makes connection with the metal (i.e. scrap off any paint, etc., where the terminal will be attached).

Jun 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

3 prong to 4 prong.


The following link will explain this for you:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

As stated in the link, the WHITE wire from the power cord should be connected to the other WHITE wire at the terminal block and NOT grounded to the equipment frame. The neutral wires are to be connected at the terminal block only. The extra white wire you mention, may be a jumper wire that originally jumpered the neutral to the equipment frame from the 3-wire configuration. This wire may be reconnected to the frame with the GREEN (ground) wire from the power cord. I hope this helps you. If you still have questions, please let me know.

Jan 03, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

4 wire power cord connection


The difference between a 3 and 4 wire cord is the 4 wire cord separates the ground and neutral, where the 3 wire grounds through the neutral. The 4 wire cord gives an extra safety against electric shock. The red and black wires on the cord go to the red and black wires on the terminal block. Then you have to determine where the green wire on the dryer goes, if it has one. Some dryers have the green wire spliced into the white wire maybe 6 inches from the terminal block. If this is the case you will hook both the green and white wires on the dryer to the nuetral (middle) terminal with just the white wire on your cord. Some dryers have a ground strap, a flat narrow peice of metal that goes from the neutral of the terminal block to the cabinet just below it. If this is the case then remove the screw securing it to the cabinet and bend it back up onto the nuetral terminal, or remove it completely. Then hook the green ground wire from the cord to the cabinet of the dryer. Make sure all of your connections are tight, but be careful not to strip them. It's also important to hook up the strain relief to prevent any possible tugs on the cord from pulling on the terminal block connections.

Jul 21, 2008 | Hotpoint Dryers

1 Answer

Terminal Block installation for Tappan Dryer


To connect your dryer you must place the black and red wires one on the left and one on the right terminals.
The white wire is called the neutral and needs to be connected to the middle terminal.
The ground (green or bare white) needs to be connected to the ground terminal or lug which will be away from the other three wire terminals.
BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER.
The wires coming from the dryer go to the hot wires inside the machine.
If you trace them by removing the covers, you will see the two hot wires that connect to the black and red wires from your power source, go to hot terminals in the dryer.
Does not matter which one goes to black and which goes to red.
They should be the outside two on the terminal block.
The neutral (white wire from the power source) goes to ground (chassis) inside of the machine.

Apr 30, 2008 | Dryers

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