Is it possible that the noise is coming from the positive line from the bat. When I turn the car key to the first positon I hear the radio and it is claer as a bell. Then I turn the key to the second position and the noise starts. Then I start the car and it gets alittle worse. Its coming from the alternator i cna hear that. I have tried 2 spots for grounding. I have changed my grounds my wires and everything else. My RCA plugs are running from the radio straight down the dash under the rug to the amp. There are some vents but really no wires. The amp is a Phase linear upa424. The car is a mountaneer. The speakers I have running from the harness to the amp. Could that be the problem? I have been tring to fix this for a week now on and off. I am not much to ask for help but here I am. Is it possible the noise is coming from the positive from the battery? I have it connected directly to the terminal.
Hear are couple things to try try running your power and (ground) both directly from your battery to the amp and to the receiver .. if this doesn't help try purchasing a noise suppressor and wire your receiver threw this it should solve your problem
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The remote wire is meant to turn on the amp when it gets power. Normally this is supplied by the REMOTE output on your AM/FM/CD/DVD dash device. If the output on your car stereo is no longer providing power to the remote switch output, look for other things that only have power when the car is on. The currend draw to the amp from the remote line is miniscule, and you can pretty much meter the fuse panel for things that only have power when the key is in the ACC or ON position, such as the in dash radio power line or some other suitable line. Ideally you'll want something that supplies 12V in the ACC, and ON positions of the key, but not in the OFF position of the key.
there is an issue in your power connections in regard to the amp kicking on randomly check all the negative and positive lines from your amp to the battery and verify you havent blown the inline fuse...as for the noise, pickup a ground loop isolator..you can buy them at walmart or any other store with a car audio section...normally this will address the issue, also you may want to move your contact point for the ground to another location and ensure the cable isnt more then 3-4 ft long as this could be the cause of all your issues...if the ground isnt making adequate contact to the metal then the amp will go into protection mode *boom* you hit a bump the connection is made a little better and now your amp has completed the circuit and will begin to work properly however since it is a weak connection you will get the whining noise in your speakers as you accelerate or a click each time you hit the break...move the ground first and foremost
Sounds like your RCA's are near your power & ground wires. I would run your RCA''s on the other side or as far away from the power wire as possibly. Sounds like your getting the infamous alternator whine. If none of the above work you can get a in line noise filter to filter out that noise. RCA's can pick up noise when their around anything that has alot of current running through it....Hope this helps
The inline fuse goes on the power wire (as close to battery as possible), and is there for a sfety feature to keep from sending to much power to the amp. All it does, is simply blow if the power gets over the specified amperage. For your amp, I would use a 40-60 amp fuse.
The remote power line, is simply an 18 gauge wire, running from the headunit to the amp. All it does is tell the amp when to power up. Since the amp is straight to the battery, it is possible to be on at all times, so you run it to the amp so it knows when to be on. If your headunit doesnt have a remote turn on wire, then tou need to run it from the ingnition to the amp.
For a signal cable, I recommend getting an rca cable to run to the amp from the headunit. Make sure when you run it that you run it away from the power wire to prevent from having engine noise.
You also need a ground wire, wich should be to a stud on the frame of your car, as close to the amp as possible.
When hooking up your amp to the sub, you need to run the negative to the negative (black to black) and the positive to the positive (red to red).
Ok, if it only happens when the engine is running and the noise changes with the gas, that's alternator whine. Alternator whine is caused by the ambient noise in the voltage which is produced by the alternator. Alternators don't make DC current, they make AC current. The AC current is then converted to DC current and then sent to the rest of the car. The noise comes from an imperfect conversion from AC to DC. That noise travels down the power cable to the amp and causes noise in your speakers. This is often called "dirty power". Dirty power can be variations in voltage, inconsistent current, or noise within the voltage. One of the simplest ways to clean up noise in a car stereo system is to use capacitors. If you add a capacitor to your system just before the amplifier's power cable, it will help filter out the noise from the alternator. Start with 1/2 Farad or 1 Farad. That should be plenty to clean up the noise. The capacitors will also have a positive effect on your amplifier's thermal and sound performance, but you may not notice it.
I FOUND WHEN RUNNING MY AMPS IN MY COMMODORE, THAT THE BEST EARTH IS ACTUALLY THE SUB FRAME OF THE CAR!! AS IF YOU FOLLOW THE NEG LEAD FROM YOUR BATTERY IT WILL BOLD ONTO THE CHASSIE OF THE VIEHCLE. SO I JUST EARTHED OUT ALL MY AMPS AND SO ON TO THE BODY (MAKING SURE THERE WAS A GOOD CONNECTION) ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR HEAD DECK IS NOT TOUCHING ANY METAL PARTS IN WHERE YOU MOUNTED IT!!!!! GOOD LUCK....