a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
AF stands for Algorithm Failure, which means that there is something preventing the dryer from calculating the remaining time. Try cleaning out the dryer drum and lint screen completely, then run the dryer with just a dry towel.
I've seen the AF code twice now on my Whirlpool Cabriolet Dryer (wed6400sw1). The first time, we thought it stood for "Auto Fluff", a cycle to keep the clothes wrinkle free...We soon realized the dryer was getting a lot hotter than it ever did before and until I checked the vent stack from the roof, I had no idea that the pipe was blocked with a build-up of lint. I cleaned the pipe from top to bottom by taking it apart wherever I could using a vacuum and every hose extension I could get my hands on. I duct taped these together so I didn't drop it somewhere that I couldn't reach!
The second time we saw the AF code was this weekend. First, I verified the vent pipe was not clogged again. (a good quick test for this is to disconnect it from the back of the dryer and run it unconnected to see if the AF code fires) After some online research, I started taking it apart the back to maybe replace the thermistor or the thermal fuse shown above.
I noticed an odd little piece of ceramic tubing had fallen down to the base of the dryer pan. So I decided to take the heater core apart to have a look. Sure enough, I found my problem. My dryer has two separate groups of springy looking heater wire. You can see that part here as well as the little tube I found. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-element-item-number-ap3953732.aspx It turns out that ceramic tube is an insulator allowing for the two heating elements to exist without touching since they are both powered from the same starting wire point.
Well, my AF code (which is really just telling you the dryer is getting too hot) was being created due to a broken wire which caused the two units to fuse together. It must have been getting really hot. It also had welded itself to the metal backing structure.
I carefully removed the broken wires from the heater element and reassembled to test. Sure enough, it works good again and no AF code, but I bet it doesn't heat as much since I removed one half of the element. I'm going to pick up a replacement heater element tomorrow from the local parts store to restore it like new.
Code AF means the air flow is blocked. Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance. Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum.
An "AF" code means there is a low airflow condition and the clothes may not dry properly. To remedy this, check to make sure the lint screen is cleaned off and that there is no blockage in either the vent duct that runs from the dryer to the wall or the vent hood on the exterior of the house.
Your dryer vent may be crushed or blocked. To resolve this issue:
,Check to see if the vent run from the dryer to the wall is crushed.
Confirmthat the vent run from the dryer to the wall is free of lint and debris.
Confirmthat the exterior vent exhaust hood is free of lint and debris.
Confirm that your vent system falls within the recommended run length and number of elbows for the type of vent you are using. Refer to the "Plan Vent
System" section of the Use and Care Guide for details.
Select a Timed Dry heated cycle, and restart the dryer.
If the message persists, have your entire home venting run cleaned.
AF flashes if a restricted airflow condition exists. Check to make sure the lint screen is clean, the door seal is in place and the vent is not obstructed. I suspect it's the vent connecting the dryer to the wall or the vent pipe in the wall to the outside. Without moving your dryer, look behind it to see if the flex duct is crushed or pinched. If it is, it's pinching off your air flow, too. Pull the dryer out straighten or replace the hose (you can get vent hose at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware) then slide the dryer back being careful to keep it about 8" from the wall (8" is the recommended distance from the back of the dryer to the wall, btw). If the flex vent is NOT pinched off, then you should call a chimney sweep to come out and clean the vent pipe that's in the wall.
*Note---> If you want to test this diagnosis to verify it, just disconnect the flex hose from the wall and run a load of clothes. The error code should not reappear.