Will run good for a day, then I'll come home and notice it cold in the house.
Sometimes, turning power off to furnace, and turning it back makes it start working for a while.
Other times, the draft motor will spin up for a few seconds, then stop - solid red light. If I wait a while, it will try again. If I power off and power on, the same thing happens, but the motor starts for even a shorter time.
I replace the thermostat, thinking that I'm getting marginal voltage through, that seemed to help, but then next day, same issue.
I measured 29 volts at the transformer.
Since there is no light flashing, it's like it thinks that the thermostat says it should stop, and not an issue with limit switches, pressure switches, etc.
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Re: Goodman GMP075-3 Random Incomplete startup
If the draft motor starts then shuts right off and then a red light comes on usually means that there is a blockage somewhere. Check the pressure switch line, make sure that it is clear and the hole in the heater that the pressure switch vaccum line runs to is open. If that checks out then make sure that your flue vent cap is on and that it is not pressed down on the flue vent and that the gases can vent properly
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1) OK, you've replaced the pressure switch - good stuff. But the neoprene hose running from the pressure switch to the inducer motor... does it have any tears or cracks? Is the hose fittings clogged on the inducer side? Clean/replace as necessary if so. You cannot have any leaks or restrictions in this hose.
2) Try disconnecting the inducer (spent fumes exhaust fan) motor and check this motor coil for continuity with a multimeter. If the motor coil is dead, you'll need to replace the inducer (about $120.00?).
3) Check during initial startup of a heating cycle that there actually is 120vac arriving at the inducer motor coming in from the control board. If not, your board may be at fault.
Hello,Good job with description.Something is keeping the condenser off(saftey).Do you have an emergency heat setting on the therm.It will run electric heat strips only until service can check it out.Very rare that the disconnect switch (black box) is it.Need electrical meter to prove it out.
If this is a High Eff furnace:
1) Remove the compartment that has the igniter and burners, turn the
power back on, if the furnace lites then you have a problem with the
intake air vent, probably iced over if you live where its cold.
2)Make sure the exhaust vent is not getting backpressure from the
3) you could cut the pipes on the inside of the house to disconnect them from the furnace, test run the furnace with no pipes.If the furnace
runs then you have a problem with the installation of the vent pipes.
4) Do not run the furnace without the exhaust pipe disconnected,
go to the hardware store and get a couple of rubber clamped
couplings and hook-up the exhaust pipe!
Check out the green wire going to the gas valve for proper ground,and also check all wires for good connections......... for the intermitting start / stopping and sand the fame sensor pin, this should do the trick.
It sounds to me that the motors on the units in question, may need a few drops of oil on the bearings. I have seen motors in these heaters and most do have a place to oil them, they wouldn't have sealed bearings as the newer motors.Check the blower wheels also for dirt build up on the blades, as this will cause them to be out of balance and cause some noise also. Sincerely, shastalaker7
Yes. The defrost cycle of a heat pump is actually turning on your airconditioning to heat up the condenser to thaw it out. During this cycle your electric strip heaters "should" be adequate enough to compensate for the a/c being on. At about 30 - 34 degrees outdoor temp there is not enough heat in the air to to adequately heat your home with the heat pump only. Some technitions will use an outdoor thermostat to turn off the heat pump when it is under 34 degrees outside. If you are to cold when its under 34 degrees intall more electric strip heaters.. But if you do this your electric bill may go up significantly.
Welcome to the wonderful world of electric heat pumps (lol).
limit switch is on the heat exchanger black plastic about 1and1/2 in. by 2 in. with 2 wires going to it , it has 2 screws holding it in take it out and check it with an ohm meter and you should not have a reading if it is good