Question about Olympus Stylus Zoom 80 Wide DLX 35mm Point and Shoot Camera

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Camera won't work, has an E on the display

What does the E mean on the display, I don't have the manual for it. My wife opened the film door by accident, so the film is probably no good. But after closing it we could not take any pictures with it. It only went through about 6 frames and then it rewound all the way.
Rick

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If E blinks in the exposure counter, the film is improperly loaded. Reload the film.

Her is the link to the Olympus website where you can download the instruction manual

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_manuals.asp?id=298

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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The new roll of film winds into the right spool upon closing back cover // brand new batteries displays 1/2 and ERR appears on led panel


Is the ERR blinking, and is there an additional blinking E on the display? If so, the film is not loaded properly.
The film is supposed to advance all the way to the take-up spool upon loading. The camera then "rewinds" one frame at a time as you take pictures. This way the camera knows exactly how many shots are left on the roll. Also, if the back is accidentally opened, the shots already taken are already in the can and won't be ruined.
If you need a manual, you may download a copy here.
Try cleaning the battery contacts and see whether the battery reads full with no film in the camera.
If problems persists, feel free to reply to this post and give any additional details.

Mar 04, 2012 | Nikon N75 35mm SLR Camera

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

I just loaded my new Fujifilm instax 210 for the first time with the correct film, loaded properly, and the prints are coming out black!


Well, black prints on an instant, or any camera, mean that they're unexposed. So, there are a few things to check - but in your case all will probably mean losing your remaining photos.

First, when you loaded the film, did you remove, or did the camera spit out, the initial black cardboard leader? If not, this is the source of your problem. This piece must come off the film pack first otherwise nothing else is going to work.

If that came out and you're still not getting photos, you're going to need to verify that you're both using the camera properly, and that the camera is functioning properly.

You'll need to be sure that you're getting enough light to get a good photo - darkness isn't going to give a good picture, but in some situations with some high speed films, neither is too bright of a condition. I've had this problem with my polaroid camera. The camera can't compensate for an extreme high-speed film and bright sunlight so it's not even giving an exposure. Don't ask me why, but it happens. If there's an option to change settings for outdoors/indoors, try that.

If that's also not your situation, you'll need to find a way to verify that the camera's shutter is actually opening and working properly. That's easier said than done, but if the other two situations don't help, feel free to contact for further assistance.

Sep 17, 2011 | FUJIFILM Instax 210 Film Camera

2 Answers

I put a fresh new pack of film into my Fuji film instax 210 camera but only used it to take two pictures. The next day when I tried to take a picture, it came out completely white. Why is that? It is very...


Completely white photos on an Instax, or any instant camera means the film has been exposed somehow. Check to be sure the film door is completely closed, and latched properly. If it is, it's possible, though unlikely, that your camera's shutter is stuck open. It'd be easy to check, simply look at the front of your camera into the lens, and see if you see any mechanical bits, now take a picture and see if you see any of them move - movement means working, no movement means not. If the entire camera back opens (I'm not sure if it does) you can also open it and do the same thing, looking to see if you see light through the camera when you're looking through the lens but not taking a picture - if you do the lense is stuck open. This, however, would require removing and wasting whatever film is remaining in it right now.

Aug 30, 2011 | FUJIFILM Instax 210 Film Camera

1 Answer

Where and how do you insert film on a minolta vectis 2000 camera


Essentially, you probably don't as APS film is no longer made and is getting difficult to get processed if you do get some old stock.

But like on all APS cameras, there's a lock on one end of the camera and usually you turn it to open a small door on the bottom of the camera. The APS film cassette gets pushed into the compartment and when you close the door and the camera *should* wind the film ready for shooting and lock the door so that you cannot open it until the film is rewound. The cameras are entirely battery dependent and many used CR2 lithium batteries which are disproportionately expensive and hard to find except from online suppliers.

Unfortunately APS was a badly engineered system from the start, so the cameras didn't tend to last long before suffering major faults. You may wish to bear that fact in mind as those faults won't show until you load a film and any film you do find will likely cost more than you can buy another APS camera for. They're widely available for free or for about a £ or two from almost any charity shop (not from the one I work in though as I always put them straight into the recycling bin as they're a liability).

Aug 14, 2011 | Minolta Vectis 2000 APS APS Point and...

1 Answer

What is the button on the bottom of Olympus Stylus zoom 140


No. You just rewound the film. The pictures you took are safe, but you probably 'lost' the rest of the film you did not shoot.

Jun 19, 2009 | Olympus Stylus Zoom 140 35mm Point and...

2 Answers

Can't load the film


Turn the camera on. Open the back. Insert film, pull it across to the red mark. Close the back.

Camera should load automatically.

You can get the manual at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

May 22, 2009 | Nikon N75 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Camera keeps rewinding film


Check the manual rewind button on the bottom plate of the camera. Make sure the button is not jammed under the edge of the button opening. If it is you might be able to carefully pry it out with a sharp pin or tooth pick (be careful not to pierce the button or you could damage the circuit board underneath) Or you could remove the bottom plate and reseat the button (be careful of a loose spring to the film door latch)

Dec 03, 2008 | Minolta Maxxum 300si 35mm SLR Camera

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