Whirlpool Duet GHW9100 Drum Knocking/Plastic Tub Shredding
Our Whirlpool Duet GHW9100 was knocking during the high spin cycle. We noticed small pools of oil under three of the shock absorbers, so we assumed this was the problem and replaced all four shock absorbers. The knocking still occurred, and to make matters worse, the front of the metal drum (basket) appears to be rubbing on the inside of the plastic ''front tub,'' and the plastic is shredding off, literally, and pieces of plastic are ending up in the washing machine. We called a repair man, and he said the problem is internal to the drum (basket/tub assembly) and that it would be more expensive to replace the items than to purchase a new machine. He said he has never before seen this problem. The machine is almost 7 years old, so we are planning to replace it. Have you heard of this problem? We have never had any other problems with this machine.
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With the machine off, push upward on the inner drum and release. If the clunking sound occurs and the drum seems somewhat loose, likely the front main bearing for the drum is damaged and must be replaced. Major tear-down!
the problem is a cracked spindle on the back of the drum. It most likely also tore up the grey plastic front shield.The only thing to do is throw the machine out sine the drum cost parts onle is over $400 for drum, and over $400 for the front plastic.l
sounds like you have abadrear bearing, not cost effective to repair by you, parts have a 5-10 yrs warr, you would need to check your manual, usuallt wind up replacing, the rear drum, inner basket, without warr theese parts are probalby 650 dollars. so i would call an authorized servicer(whirlpool wont send you parts even though they're warr)
Ours started knocking several months ago and then progressed to a high pitched sound when in the spin cycle. I manually turned the drum and heard and felt a bearing roughness. I lifted the drum assembly and felt a fair amount of play, which I think the initial knocking noise came from. On the sears web site a new rear drum mount cost 293.00. Today we went and bought a LG model wm2455hw at Home depot, on sale until 2/20/08. I couldn't see paying to repair a machine that only lasted four years.
The "cleats" inside the wash tub are actually called "fins". If they are loose try tightening them to see if the sound goes away. You should be able to tighten them from inside the wash tub. Some models have mounting screws that are accessible from inside the wash tub. However, if your machine is knocking like you say it is, it could be sign that one or more of the mounting shocks under the wash tub could be bad, the rear tub bearing could be going bad, or the drive pulley could be cracked or warped.
Remove the lower kick plate and watch the shocks during the spin cycle. The shocks should vibrate some, but should not be excessive to the point that it causes an unbalanced spin.
To check the drive pulley, remove the 3 screws from the washer top in the rear of the machine. The top should slide back some and then lift off. Watch the drive pulley behind the wash tub during the spin to make sure the rotation is smooth and even. Sometimes one of the arms on the pulley can crack or become bent and cause the pulley to wobble. More than likely, though, the drive belt would slip off. I have also seen where the hole in the center of the drive pulley starts to "round out". The hole is not perfectly round and has to flat sides. Sometimes over time the drive shaft will start to slip around the flat sides, causing the pulley to rattle during the spin cycle.
If the rear tub bearing is starting to go, the washer will be very noisy during the spin cycle, and you may start to notice some stains on your clothes if the bearing seal has been breached. You can reach inside the wash tub with the unit turned off. With one hand, push up on the wash tub and release. If you can feel the tub moving up and down (even the slightest) this could be a sign that the bearing is worn out. Now this should be a noticeable metal on metal type feel. Not the normal motion of the wash tub moving up and down from the motion of the shocks. The tub bearing is not a cheap (or easy) fix. The entire back section of the rear outer tub shell has to be replaced, because the bearing is molded into the plastic. Check all the easy things first. Let me know if this helps.