Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer
It seems when it changes gears it bangs loudly, and vibrates a little more than I think it should. It is level.
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.
Basket drive block part number is 389140
If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
SOURCE: loud banging noises
The reason of this noise is from loose lower front weight mounting bolts or a loose bolt securing the driven pulley. Check the motor adjustment bolt for tightness. The noise could be from a loose wire harness, plastic purse-lock wire harness retainer on upper hose hitting the top cover or a plastic injection mold standoff on the outer tub bearing housing may possibly be interfering with the driven pulley. Also, check the drive belt for a weak spot on the belt. Ussually felt on the backside of the belt as a "flat" spot. Check the belt for a weak seam and replace it.
It may also occur due to the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.
Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.
Posted on May 06, 2009
Open the door and see if the basket has any up and down "play" in it. what you're doing here is checking the rear bearing assembly. There should be no "play"/movement (other than the entire tub assembly moving on the shocks/springs obviously). the rear bearing in any front load machine has practically zero tolerance. meaning it shouldn't knock when spinning, or have movement in the basket if you try to move it with an up & down motion.
If you DON'T have nay unwanted motion, make sure you are using the right detergent, that the unit is sitting level on all four feet/legs, and that the shock absorbers and springs on the tub aren't broke or seperated from the cabinet.
If you DO have unwanted motion/up & down play, you may want to consider a new washer, unless you have extended warranty or canet a could "used" one for parts.
Also check for any signs in the cabinet for pieces of concrete from the counterweight at the front.
At this point, before removing any parts/panels etc. **Unplug the unit from the wall**
You'll need to remove two screws at the bottom in the front to remove the lower panel for checking the shock's and counterwight, and remove the top to check the springs. There are two or three screws at the top in back to remove the top panel.
hope that helps,
Good Luck :)
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
I have a whirpool model:lsq9200lq3, and recently it has stopped working. when ever you turn it on, its fine and the water fills up normally and right before it gets to the spinning cycle the machine makes a grinding noise like if something is stopping the motor from spinning, and it dosent spin inside the washer. if anybody has any suggestion It would be great thank you.
Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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