Question about Ryobi 30 Cubic Centimeter Curved Shaft Gas Trimmer

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Ryobi weedeater stalls out

When I start the weedeater I always have the choke on but when I take the choke off it stalls out.
I have already replaced gas,spark plug looked for leaks, checked the muffler and cleaned the carb. Can anyone help?

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>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated. 
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear. 
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off. 
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required. 
>>If the Muffler and Exhaust Port are Clear, then
>>Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. 
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.  
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then  
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). 
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb. 
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. 
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. 
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. 
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. 
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable). 
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. 
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. 
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. 
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. 
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.**** 
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. 
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:  
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** 
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. 
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine. 
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test. 
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle. 
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting. 
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. 
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor.  Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.  
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm   
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf   . 
You can View a Breakdown of this Unit at this Site Addy; http://www.ryobitools.com/parts and Select "Go to Ryobi Outdoor Parts Store". Now Select "Repair Parts Catalog". Select I Agree to Terms. Now Enter the Model Numbers and Click Search. Now Double Click on you Model in the Results Area. 

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Its the air filter, i would replace it or, clean it if its reusable. make sure you have the right oil/gas mixture as well. hope that helps.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

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Here was my solution:
I was having problems with my ryobi cs30 weedeater also. It would start up fine on full choke, but i could not give it more than half throttle or ever take the choke off or it would stall out. I replaced fuel mixture, spark plug, spark arrestor/exhaust, fuel lines, cleaned carb, and still nothing! I was considering getting a better machine. Then i decided to play with the carb adjustments.(on my cs-30, they are two screws on the carb that have a "L" and "H" next to them) I dont think you can get the specialty tool for adjusting the carb unless you are a repair tech, so i just took a Dremmel tool with the circular cut-off wheel to the head of the specialty screws and made them into "flat-head" screws so i could adjust them with a regular screwdriver (if you dont have a dremmel, get one!) (As i was cutting into the head of the screws, i also cut into the casing protecting the head of the screws that was in the way, this does not cause any damage to the unit, that casing is only there to keep "un-certified" people from adjusting it for themselves.)
Now to the easy part: The "L" screw adjusts the idle fuel mixture and the "H" screw adjusts the full throttle fuel mixture. turning the screws clockwise make the machine run leaner (less fuel) and counter clockwise makes it run richer (more fuel).
-I started out by turning each screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise and started it up, then as it was idling, i started adjusting the "L" screw as i was moving the choke position to run, after a few full turns counter clockwise of the "L" screw, it was idling perfectly in the run position, then i did the same thing the the "H" screw while holding down the throttle and i got it to run perfectly in the run position. Now it is running way better than it ever has. I hope this helps everyone.
Good Luck!
* For this specific problem, i would say you should probably just adjust the "L" screw and hopefully that will help

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Here was my solution:
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Good Luck!

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