This unit came to me 3RROD, its the dual socket HDMi/Tv model unit.
i have repaired successfully several other 360s using the Xclamp fix bolts and washers. someone had already done the fix on this one but the paste was very thick. i cleaned it all off thoroughly, used new washers and new Artic 5 Past, and i have now done this twice on this Xbox.
when i hit the on button the rear fans run for about 1/2 second and stop with 3 reds. i replaced the fans thinking perhaps one might faulty either drawing too much r little current, but the same result persists.
i have left it on for a couple of hours but its not getting hot enough to affect the solder (as claimed in the towel trick).
the psu indicator returns to orange after initially flashing green on start up.
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Amanda, check your connections. Are you using the RCA cords, or HDMI? The PS3 can run the HDMI, but it's not as stable as the RCA cords provided by SONY. However, the HDMI connection is the only way to get the 1080dp or Hi-def video from your system. If you were using the HDMI and are switching back to the RCA cord, the system will NOT auto-recognize the connection like it did with the HDMI. You will have to either connect the system to a TV with HDMI, then manually change the connection type, or do a video reset on the system. Pretty easy to do. Simply turn on the system, and while holding the power button, wait for the second "beep" After you hear the second "beep" take your finger off of the power button and watch your screen. YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED YOUR FIRST VIDEO RESET!!! ^^It should turn on, but may take a moment. Sometimes it's instant, sometimes it can take about a minute. This works for ALL PS3 models.
If you Google “Xbox 360 RROD” you will find countless web sites about the “X-clamp fix”.
Every web sites you find will say “MS screwed up only have the x-clamps hold the heatsinks on”
But if you have disassembled your Xbox 360, then you should think about that! All the X-clamps do is hold the heatsinks to the circuit board so that it’s easier to put the screws in! The black screws hold the heatsinks in place, and when those are in there is no “wiggle” of the system.
The only reason some people report success with the X-clamp fix is that they “bake” the GPU. This is really what is fixing the system, NOT the bolt replacement.
The “baking” involves having the fan run on top of the CPU so the system doesn’t overheat, but the GPU gets very hot and this “reflows” the solder.
Reflowing is THE ONLY THING that will fix this problem.
There are several methods of reflowing. Here they are: 1. The “towel trick” – Wrap your system in a towel so it gets hot and reflows. This is dangerous because you have no control over what components get hot!
2. The “fan trick” - Stick something in the left fan so that it does not spin. This causes the GPU to overheat and reflow itself, while keeping the rest of the system cooler. This is still not ideal but much better than the towel trick!
3. Heatgun reflow – With the system disassembled, Wave a heatgun over the GPU for 40-60 seconds. This method is better because it offers localized heat only.
4. Hot air/Infrared Reflow – This involves using a rework station to reflow the solder. Ideally, flux is used to make the solder “stick” better.
All of these methods can potentially fix the RROD, but none will PREVENT it from happening again!
There are several ways you can improve the cooling of your system to prevent the RROD from ever happening again!
1. Buy an external fan. Stay away from the ones that use the Xbox 360 power connector. A USB or self powered fan are best.
2. Run the system without it’s case – Not pretty, but it works!
3. Cut the metal mesh out from behind the fans. The air being forced through those holes can really limit the air flow.
4. Replace the fan with a better one. A Talismoon whisper quiet fan moves 48 CFM (cubic feet per minute) while the stock fan only moves 29 CFM
5. Add an internal fan – Requires some soldering skills – The most common place to add a fan is on the GPU header. This is the heatpipe that extends from the GPU heatsink in front of the CPU (not all models have this heat pipe). Attach an INTAKE fan here. To be really effective you need to either cut a hole into your case or drills lots of small holes. If you do a good job, it looks great! Also requires soldering the 12v and ground wires to an appropriate spot – Google can help you find one!
So to summarize: Replacing the X-clamps does NOTHING except cause you headaches. Reflowing the GPU in 90% of cases is what’s needed. Preventative maintenance of some sort is required to keep your system running. In other words, better cooling.
The problem is with the graphics processor unit (GPU) this is a chip inside the console, the console needs stripping down and new heatsink paste applying between the gpu and the heatsink,this is basically the same repair as rrod, so there are lots of guides how to do this if you want to tackle this yourself.
Vote if this helps.
You can try a diff tv and that could fix the problem. Also try a diff HDMI cord. If all fails then you have a problem with the solder joints on the GPU (graphics processor unit) Its the same as the YROD but its not severed to the point that it would issue a code. I repair these problems often with 95% success rate.
The real problem could just be a failed sensor in the Xbox telling your fan it needs to work its hardest to cool things down. My computer for example is a defective model that shuts down randomly because the sensor tells it it is overheating when is actually doing just fine.
Best solution? If you have one of the earlier generations, give Microsoft a call and tell them what's going on. They'll have you go through the repair request process but simply talk to them and they should cover it for free.
If the warranty is no longer "valid" tell them that you would have gladly had it repaired during that time but you can't fix what's not broken. Now that it IS broken, you would like them to send you a refurbished one free of charge. They will usually get on your side because they know the cooling fan and its system is somewhat of a faulty design.
The other option is don't try and bargain with them and cough up the $100 for them to "repair" it for you (which to me is absurd).
is it the heatsink is tight enough and the position of the heatsink are balance or not because if the heatsink not balance gpu or cpu will not properly transfer the heat and make sure to there is no component touching the heatsink suchas condensator on the left of the main memory ic's with brown color 2 thiny things, and that my your console still 3rrod. if you have done check it up repeat the instuction from the fist and the fan is on and the shroud was in original place and heat up the console with towel for fasting the heat.
note. the 3rrod came because the component soldering not properly soldered or that had sort contact with the other component.