Runs but won't heat up

All standard dryer motors run on 120V. Its the heater that uses 240. Its possible to wire a dryer for 120V operation and it will appear to run ok but it won't heat efficiently and it will take several cycles to get the clothes dry. Sounds like you have a mechanical problem with the motor.

Unplug the dryer and the first thing to do is check for the presence of 220 volts at the wall outlet. If you lost one leg of the 220 volts, it is possible for your dryer to run but there will not be any heat. Once you verified there is definitely 220 volts at the wall outlet, remove the rear cover. On the lower right hand side you will see a silver canister which contains the heating element. Remove the lower two wires directly from the heating element and check this for continuity. If it is good, on the left hand side of the same canister they often install a thermal safety which may have tripped. Do the same test as with the heating element. Remove the wires and test the thermal safety for continuity. If this is good, move to the blower housing on the left side of the exhaust vent and look for a white piece of plastic which has two wires on it. Remove these two wires and check this item for continuity.

you can follow this link below to find out how to test for individual components to find out what part is faulty...

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

You can also order for any replacement part from the following Websites

www.PartSelect.com

www.SearspartsDirect.com

If you found my solution of any help ... please do not forget to rate the solution

Yes, an electric dryer requires 220VAC in order to heat.

I would recommend you begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). IMPORTANT: If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good at the terminal block with the dryer plugged in, you have an internal electrical problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. Replacement power cords can be purchased at any hardware store for about $20.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, which is tapped off the input voltage. The heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC in order to work. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will run, but won't heat.

Perform these steps and post back and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer not heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged exhaust vent ducting. Pay particular attention to the section that discusses ventilation and make sure your dryer interior and ducting are clean. Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition will not only decrease the drying efficiency of the appliance, it will also cause repeated failures of any components you may replace and is a fire hazard.

The first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If you have any questions about this repair, or require additional assistance please let me know.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

YOUR DRYER will start and run with only 110v. applied to it...........................How ever you won't get heat without 220v..........after you run dryer a few minutes you should feel HEAT inside.......my guess is you have no heat but the dryer runs,,,,,,,? If this is so, you probally are not getting 220 volts. you either have a blown FUSE or a bad circiut BRAKER in your main panel... remove cover (the small one) on back of dryer where the plug cord goes in....get someone with a voltmeter to check for 220v. going in to your dryer,,,,,,,,,,BLACK(wire) toWHITE(wire)=110v...........RED(wire) toWHITE(wire)=110v.........BLACK(wire) to RED(wire)=220v.............Let me know how you make out....P.S. don't go on ROOF..!!!!

Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.

is it 220 volt dryer,if so check the plug at the wall and make sure you have 220,the plug runs off 2 circuit breakers at your electric panel,1 breaker may be no good so your only getting 110 volts to the dryer which will run the dryer but not the heating element