Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Our machine is 2.5 years old and has started leaking water from the front. We took the drawer out and in looking the fron, we can see the water dripping from the bottom center of the washing machine. The leak only occurs when water is being added, not during soak or agitation, and a little leaking occurs during the spin cycle.
Should we pay a repairman to fix this? Or call Whirlpool? We have an extended warranty, but were advised by Warner Stellian, whom we bought the set from, that the warranty only cover major parts such as the motor.
How can we determine if it is the door seal or the tub seal? What is a reasonable repair cost for a door seal or a tub seal?
Could the problem be related to improper balancing or installation? The machine is sitting on a Whirlpool drawer that we purchased with the set and when we use the High Speed spin, the thing moves 8-10 inches from the wall and is very loud during the spin cycle.
Thanks so much!
Amy and John
The problem, I suspect, is the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot on the door and front of the tub. The key is the fact that it only leaks during fill, or when adding water, and only leaks in the front center. The washer fills through a dispenser tube in the door bellow. Water runs through this tube and into the front portion of the tub. If you pull back the rubber folds of the bellow and look, you may have some rips or tears causing the water to drip out. If there are no obvious signs of wear causing the leak, the other two possibilities would be the dispenser tube not inserted through the bellow all the way. That is, the tube may have slipped behind the bellow a bit and may be causing water to drip BEHIND the bellow instead of through the fill port. Another cause would be if one of the clamps that hold the bellow in place has come loose and is not sealing to the front of the tub, or door frame properly. The following link explains how to replace a door bellow:
I provide this link not only to give you advice in the event that your bellow needs replaced, but also to give you steps necessary to access the bellow in order the check or tighten the clamps. NOTE: An alternate method to checking the rear bellow clamp (located on the front of the tub) is to remove the washer top panel and attempt to access the 7mm clamp nut from the top. The method I have described in the link, however, offers the best access. NOTE: The clamp needs to be seated evenly around the entire perimeter of the tub facing and the clamp should be SNUG. DO NOT overtighten. This will cause damage to the clamp and/or tub facing.
If you require a replacement, you can order on line at appliancepartspros.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 5. Other items of interest are the rear bellow clamp, item 6 and the front bellow clamp, item 14. In most cases the clamps do not require replacement and can be reused. But, just in case you have to replace them, you now have them identified.
You can perform this repair on your own, if you like and save the cost of expensive labor charges. This is not a difficult repair, if you follow the instructions provided. This repair can usually cost $200 or more (cost of the part, plus the labor) if you have a repairman do it.
The problem could possibly have been caused by excessive vibration, but its hard to tell. Washers mounted on a pedestal can often have vibration problems if the washer is not mounted properly to the pedestal. Make sure all mounting bolts are installed that hold the washer to the pedestal. Make sure they are tight. Also, proper leveling can be an issue. DO NOT attempt to level the feet of the washer on a pedestal. Mount the washer and adjust the feet of the pedestal for proper leveling. Make sure the unit rests on a flat surface and is level front-to-back and side-to-side. A good foundation is also required to ensure the washer does not vibrate. If the flooring under these washers flex (even the slightest) they can cause vibration problems even if it is properly leveled. Flooring in an upstairs laundry room or a mobile home is usually the worst. Another item to consider is the pedestal itself. Look at the back of the pedestal. Is it open in the back, or does it have a back panel that encloses it? If the pedestal back is open, this can cause a condition known as "tin-canning", where the sides of the pedestal waffle in and out and begins to bounce when the washer spins. This can be overcome by purchasing a stiffener kit. Look at your pedestal and let me know if this may be the issue with yours. If so, I can provide you with a part number to order.
If you have further question, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
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